2017 Scotland

 

          Diane and I brought in 2017 with a fine group of friends at our annual New Year’s Day meal at Harry and Nancy’s.  It was nice to see Ellen the next day since she would be leaving soon on her annual trip to India.  Pam, my fellow treasurer, and I completed the fourth quarter Muleskinners Ethics Report and filed it with the state.  I copied my Tax Cut program to a flash drive and took it to my friend Chris’s house so she could get started on her taxes.  I had already gone through the Tax Cut interview for Diane and me.  Diane started physical therapy again for her shoulder after a fall aggravated her old injury.  We went to a private True/False preview party.

Since year-end totals were available for 2016, I could do my RMD (Required Minimum Distribution) accounting for that year and set up the withdrawals for 2017.  All of these calculations were accomplished using an Excel template I had constructed for that purpose.  Plugging in the 2016 dividend totals, I found it was only the second year since I started withdrawals in 2011 that the RMD amount withdrawn exceeded the dividends reinvested.  Usually, I was earning and reinvesting more than I was taking out.  The total of the dividends over the six years since I was required to take the RMDs was still greater than the total paid out.  Due to a rising stock and bond market, the value of my retirement holdings was much greater than it was in 2011 when I started the withdrawals.  It reflected how well the stock and bond markets had been performing.  So far, I was feeling financially secure about my retirement years.

Events prior to this year’s True/False Film Festival were beginning.  We attended the preview party open to most passholders and started watching the postings on the website.  David Wilson was scheduled to review the films at Osher.  Prior to the festival, Diane and I volunteered to go to New Jersey to help my sister Earlene move.  She and her husband Vince had lived in their Princeton, New Jersey house for over 30 years.  After Vince died, it seemed like Earlene was always traveling.  Vince was the one to take care of the large lot on which their house sat.  He enjoyed being outdoors maintaining the gardens and the forest of large oak trees that populated their lot. 

Earlene had been keeping track of the new apartment developments being built in Princeton, and she found one she liked.  She sold her house and signed a lease on a three-bedroom apartment.  After living in their house for so many years, downsizing wasn’t easy.  First task was cleaning out her house and helping her decide what to take with her.  I thought back to when Diane did this for my mother’s house.  I’m not sure it gets any easier.  I asked Diane to take charge of her specialty, the kitchen.  Meanwhile, I started with my specialty and disconnected the computer equipment in my sister’s office.  To illustrate how she and her husband accumulated stuff, I found one drawer in the living room that had three pairs of binoculars, only one of which worked.  This was not an isolated incidence.  Cleaning out my mother’s house was easy compared to this.  I made a list of everything she wanted the movers to take and, on moving day, checked that it had been taken.  Of course, Earlene took too much.  The clothes closets in her apartment were crammed full.  Framed pictures were stacked up in the guest bathroom, even in the shower.  It was a happy day when we were able to return to our home.

Earlene came for the week of the True/False festival, and then Diane and I had two and a half months of our regular activities before May, when we were off on another international adventure.  Previously, we had seen only a little bit of Scotland.  Now we were again going to be with Road Scholar, this time for The Best of Scotland.

The tour started in Glasgow.  We stayed in the Copthorne Millennium Hotel across the street from George Square, named after King George III.  It showcased an important collection of statues and monuments, including those dedicated to famous Scots such as Robert Burns, James Watt, Sir Robert Peel and Sir Walter Scott.  We were glad to see at least one statue of a woman, the only known equestrian statue of a young Queen Victoria that was moved there in 1866 beside her husband Prince Albert.  It was a nice place to stretch our legs and loosen up after our flight over the Atlantic.  We met our fellow travelers at the welcome dinner and orientation that evening.

Queen Victoria

 

After a lecture on Scotland’s history the next morning, we boarded a bus for a city tour.  It started with the nearby Merchant’s House.  It was topped by a domed tower with a ship perched on a globe, symbolizing the worldwide trade in which the merchants were involved.  We stopped at the Glasgow Cathedral and went inside to view its architectural wonders.  We drove by the highly decorative five-tier Doulton Fountain of Queen Victoria in Kelvingrove Park and the commemorative obelisk in honor of Vice Admiral Horatio Nelson in Glasgow Green Park. We had lunch at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum followed by a tour of the exhibits.  Diane and I walked from there to the Riverside Museum before the long, exhausting walk back to our hotel.

Worldwide trade symbol

 

Inside the Glasgow Cathedral

 

The 2,889 pipes of the organ at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

 

Floating Heads at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

 

Me with antique auto at the Riverside Museum

 

Our first visit the next day was to the Culzean Castle, the home of the Kennedy Clan.  During his lifetime, the owners reserved an apartment for General Dwight D. Eisenhower in recognition of his service during WWII.  Robert Burns, Scotland's national poet, was the center of attention in the afternoon.  Our guide recited his poetry along the way.  We stopped in Alloway to tour his birthplace, the Burns Cottage.

Culzean Castle

 

Robert Burns Cottage

 

Sculpture, likely Tam o' Shanter, from Robert Burns' famous poem

 

After leaving Glasgow the next morning, the bus first stopped in Helensburgh where we toured the Hill House, built by Charles Rennie Mackintosh for the publisher Walter Blackie.  Diane and I thoroughly enjoyed it as a prominent example of the British Art Nouveau style. We then continued into the Highlands driving along the shore of Loch Lomond. It started to rain as we drove by Loch Awe and visited St. Conan's Kirk, a Victorian church on its banks.  It was an eclectic church having an example of almost every style of church architecture: the Norman doorway, the Gothic flying buttresses, a Celtic cross, the Arts and Crafts carvings, the Saxon tower and even a Stone circle.  We drove on to the Oban Bay Hotel and Spa to spend the night.

Example of the British Art Nouveau style at Hill House

 

St. Conan's Kirk

 

The ferry to the Isle of Mull was close to our hotel.  It was then a long drive through meadows under overcast skies for the ferry to the much smaller Isle of Iona.  We walked to a hotel where we enjoyed hot soup for lunch.  The main attraction on this island is the early Christian Abby.  Not being of religious natures, Diane and I spent some time viewing the contents of its small museum, walked through the other buildings and then back to the small restaurant by the ferry landing.  It was a cold and dreary day, just perfect for a large hot toddy or two.  The rest of the group finally showed up, and we all went back to our hotel via the two ferry rides to spend a warm, quiet evening.

Me on the ferry

 

Display in the museum

 

The bus drove through "kidnapped country" the next morning, and we were entertained with readings from the book by Robert Louis Stevenson.  We stopped to see Stalker Castle, a four-story tower house or keep. It was set on a tidal islet on Loch Laich, an inlet off Loch Linnhe.  Monty Python fans love to visit here, recognizing this as the ‘Castle of Arrrgh!’ from the Holy Grail movie.  We then drove to Loch Shiel where we took a cruise on the loch with views of the Glenfinnan Viaduct.  This viaduct is the longest concrete railway bridge in Scotland, but is most famous to fans of the Harry Potter movies.  It was often seen during the train journey from Platform 9¾ in London to Hogwarts.  It is a great tourist attraction with the times the train can be seen on the viaduct advertised.  We stopped in Glenfinnan to see a replica of the Hogwarts Express as it sat in the train station.  We then traveled on to the Ben Nevis Hotel in Fort William.

Stalker Castle

 

Glenfinnan Viaduct

 

Hogwarts Express

 

It was very foggy the next morning, so we drove to a couple of other sights before going up the mountain.  First, we saw what is called Neptune’s Staircase but is the Caledonian Canal.  It is an amazing structure that connects the eastern coast of Scotland at Inverness with the western coast at Corpach near Fort William.  Second, we visited the Commando Monument which is dedicated to the men of the original British Commando Forces raised during World War II.  It was still foggy.  Luckily it lifted enough so we could ride a gondola up Ben Navis, the highest mountain in Scotland with a summit at 4,411 feet.  We then boarded the West Highland Line train from Fort William to Crianlarich via Rannoch Moor.  The scenery was beautiful, but stark.  We were met by our bus which took us to the Glencoe Visitor Center where we were told the early history of the area including a local massacre.  The Scottish are tough people.

Neptune’s Staircase

 

Commando Monument

 

Gondola ride up Ben Navis on a foggy day

 

Our destination the following day was another island, but we didn’t need to take a ferry.  Instead, we drove over the Skye Bridge to the Isle of Skye, sometimes called ‘the Misty Isle’ because the sun can be so unpredictable.  The bus drove us through the Black and Red Cuillin mountains in the Highlands to the town of Portree.  The colorful mountain rocks are a product of the highly varied geology of the Isle of Skye with a wide range of rock types: sedimentary, metamorphic and igneous.  We had a lovely lunch in Portree and walked around the harbor.  After returning to the mainland, we stopped at two castles, the Eilean Donan and the Urquhart, before we reached our lodging in the Tulloch Castle in Dingwall.

Eilean Donan Castle

 

The Urquhart Castle

 

The next day we visited Cawdor Castle, the place where Duncan was murdered in Shakespeare's Macbeth.  We toured the many rooms and ate lunch at the Castle. It was a blue-sky day so it was nice to walk in the castle gardens.  We visited Clava Cairns, a prehistoric cemetery and strolled among its monuments.  Then on to the visitor center at the battlefield of Culloden, the site of the bloody last battle of the Jacobite Rising.

Wall hanging in Cawdor Castle

 

Clava Cairns

 

 In the morning, we rode the bus to the Tomatin whisky distillery.  After the tour and tasting, we proceeded to Carrbridge.  It is known for the old packhorse bridge, the oldest stone bridge in the Highlands.  After lunch in the Carrbridge Hotel, we drove on to the Kingussie Leaut Farm for a sheep dog and sheep shearing demonstration.  Our day ended at the Fishers Hotel in Pitlochry.

Tomatin whisky distillery

 

Stone bridge

 

Sheep and sheep dogs

 

The next morning, we rode on the bus to Dunkeld, one of the best-preserved towns in Scotland, where we visited the Dunkeld Cathedral.  From there we went to the Scone Palace, the crowning place of Scottish Kings.  It is the original resting place of the Stone of Scone, an oblong block of red sandstone that has been used for centuries in the coronation of the monarchs of Scotland.  It is also known as the Stone of Destiny.  It was seized by Edward I's forces from Scone during the English invasion of Scotland in 1296 and only returned in 1996. It is now kept with the Scottish Crown Jewels in Edinburgh Castle.  We ate lunch at the Scone Palace and walked the grounds, encountering a beautiful white peacock.  We returned to our hotel via the Loch of the Lowes Nature Reserve.  There was a bird blind where we could view an osprey nest.  The ospreys have been on site here for decades.

Choir practicing in front of organ pipes at the Dunkeld Cathedral

 

White peacock

 

Osprey nest

 

On the way to Edinburgh the next morning, we stopped at Culross with views across the Firth of Forth that is known in modern times as the location for the romantic TV series Outlander.  The drama is a romance about an English combat nurse from 1945 that was mysteriously swept back in time to 1743.  We toured the Merchant's Palace with its low ceilings, narrow stairs and doorways.  After that Diane and I had enough of tight, small places and passed on going through the Bishop's Study.  After sitting outside and eating a packed lunch, we drove over the Firth of Forth on the new modern bridge and proceeded to the Rosslyn Chapel with its ornate stonework. The chapel became world famous after being featured in a conspiracy theory in Dan Brown's book The Da Vinci Code.  It was then time to check-in to the Royal Terrace Hotel in Edinburgh.

New bridge over the Firth of Forth

 

Rosslyn Chapel

 

We did a thorough tour of Edinburgh Castle the next morning, even seeing the crown jewels.  As in our past trip to Edinburgh, we walked from the castle to the Mussel Inn to have our favorite pot of mussels cooked in a light white wine.  Our farewell dinner at the hotel that night concluded our tour and we felt like we really did see the “Best of Scotland.”

Looking down on the tourists in Edinburgh Castle