2004 Includes Trips to Newfoundland and Antarctica

          The year 2004 was an important election year, not only at the Presidential level, but statewide in Missouri.  Diane and I were contributing heavily to Democrats at all levels of government, nationally, in Missouri and across the country through political organizations like Emily’s List, the Victory Fund, and various PACs.  John Kerry was challenging George W. Bush who was running for his second term as President.  In 2000, Democrats won all but one of the Missouri state offices.  Nancy Farmer had won the office of State Treasurer, but in 2004, she decided to run for the US Senate against Kit Bond.  Clare McCaskill had won the election as State Auditor with ease in 2002, and decided to run for Governor in a year in which her state office was protected.  Jean Carnahan was defeated when she ran under her own name for Senate in 2002.  This election, her daughter Robin Carnahan was running for Missouri Secretary of State and her son Russ Carnahan was seeking election to the US Congress, hoping to bring the Carnahan brand back to Missouri politics.

          In February, Diane and I had our first big Democratic fundraiser in our house, which was well designed for the function.  Even in the cold of winter with snow on the ground, we had a big crowd for the food and drinks we made available.  Diane prepared a lavish layout including smoked salmon, dips for vegetables, toasted baguette slices, fresh fruit and a variety of drinks and good wine.  As a result of our event, attendees donated a lot of money to Nancy Farmer’s Senate campaign.

        Farmer addressing the audience in our house

In March 2004, we flew to Newark and then drove to Pennsylvania so that we could attend the wedding of Diane’s nephew Joe to his bride Angie and visit the rest of Diane’s family.  A drive south took us to Jersey City where we toured my nephew Craig and his wife Mary Ann’s condo.  Before flying home, we stopped in Princeton to see my sister, Earlene and her husband, Vince.  

Angie and Joe Belanger, Jr.

     Diane, Mary Ann, Craig and me on the riverwalk

   
              Earlene and Vince in front of their Princeton home

Later in March, Diane and I visited the annual Orchid Show at the Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis.  We were accompanied by Karen Carlson and Betty Bilgere, who had been the Executive Directors of Planned Parenthood in Kansas City and St. Louis respectively.  Bilgere brought an interesting history to her work with Planned Parenthood.  Born in 1922, she was the director of Miss Hickey’s School for Secretaries in St. Louis during the 1950s and 1960s and then found her calling.  She dramatically changed direction, going on to serve as the Executive Director of Planned Parenthood of St. Louis for 19 years.

Betty and Karen at the Orchid Show


We saw Earlene and Vince again in May while attending my nephew Jon’s graduation from law school in San Diego.  We stayed in La Jolla to enjoy the seacoast and fresh seafood.  The summer months saw a gathering at the home of one of our Fulton, MO friends, Mary B, who had been a lobbyist for Planned Parenthood.  She titled the event “Women of Substance,” and she continued to host them until she moved to Columbia in 2006.

The graduate, my nephew Jon


        Celebrating the graduation at the Hotel del Coronado, left to right, Diane, Jon’s friend Joe, Earlene, Vince, Jon and me

          Now I was ready for more relaxing travel that focused on nature.  Through my membership in the National Wildlife Federation, in July we joined a Canadian company’s tour in Newfoundland, flying to Newark and then on to St. John.  The main attraction was a bird colony at Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve.  It is home to one of North America's largest seabird colonies where we saw northern gannets, black-legged kittiwakes, and common murres, among others.  It was breeding season and there were many baby birds being fed by their parents. 

          Northern Gannets at Bird Rock, Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve, Newfoundland

          One morning while taking in the views of the harbor, Diane and I strolled down the main street of St. John.  On our way back to our lodging, we started smelling something wonderful. Even though the small restaurant was closed, we banged on the door until the chef opened it, answering our query about the aroma by explaining he was braising baby octopi that had been flown in from the Mediterranean.  We immediately made reservations for dinner that night and Mmmm! It was delish.

On our drive around the Newfoundland peninsula, we learned about the early settlement of the island and its role in WWII.  We visited the Cape Spear Lighthouse and stopped at a local restaurant to enjoy fresh-caught cod.  We viewed whales, eagles, vegetation in inland marshes and icebergs floating down from Greenland.  On our return home, our airplane sat and sat on the tarmac at the Newark airport, with everyone getting hungry and needing the overly-used bathrooms, before finally taking off.  On that plane we met Phil, a neighbor on our street Holly Hills Court, with whom we now had one more thing in common.  It is these coincidences that make life so interesting.

          Iceberg outside St. John’s Harbor

          My work with Pfizer was not as satisfying as before.  The “big boys” were moving in.  Meetings about changes in software or procedures were dominated in a manner I had experienced years ago, with ideas I presented being soundly criticized, particularly from the British male visitors, and then offered later as a good idea by one of them.  I became determined to follow up the publication of my bend point paper with another, since they liked to look down on my ideas.

Now I was only consulting with one Monsanto Ag scientist who worked on cotton.  More of my smaller clients were being absorbed by larger companies.  I did start a new contract with another Columbia contract lab.  It was routine work, but I thought it was important to keep that source of income active.  I only had one more year before I qualified for Medicare. 

          Diane was volunteering in the Democratic campaign office downtown.  One of the other workers, Emma Jean, suggested she and Diane join a group practicing Tai Chi across the street in a little pocket park.  It didn’t take long before Diane and I were members of the Tai Chi group four days a week.

During the summer, the political campaigns were heating up.  Vicky Hartzler drew national and international attention for her work in the campaign for a constitutional amendment in Missouri to ban gay marriage.  The amendment was the first of its kind.  In August 2004, 71% of Missouri voters ratified Amendment 2, which restricted the validity and recognition of marriage in Missouri to the "union of one man and one woman."   

There was a big fund-raising event held at a St. Louis hotel that offered Diane and I a closeup encounter with John Kerry, so we paid the big bucks to attend.  As Kerry stood on a platform addressing the crowd, he continually surveyed the assembly.  It was hot, and, all of a sudden, he said, “I see someone down on the floor out there and needing help.”  Immediately the paramedics were on the scene to help the person who had fainted.  Kerry had certainly been in command of the situation.  As the event continued, Diane and I joined the rope-line so that we could shake his hand. 

At the Missouri Theatre later that summer, we saw the movie about his military service in Vietnam.  He probably made his military service too much a part of his campaign, because it was soon attacked by Bush surrogate groups as untruthful, even to the point of saying he didn’t deserve to be awarded the Purple Heart for being wounded.  Kerry had another big event in Jefferson City with speeches not only by him but all the Missouri Democrats.

John Kerry with a next generation voter

          Diane’s brother-in-law, Joe, had worked as office manager for a company that changed hands, and he was let go.  He liked what he saw on his visits to Missouri and asked if he could come stay with us and look for a job in Columbia.  We agreed, he flew out and lived in our guest bedroom while applying for jobs.  The plan was for his wife, Diane’s sister, and their younger daughter to eventually join him in Columbia.  In the fall, I bought a two-bedroom condo in the Country Club Estates that they could live in at a discounted rent.  It needed a lot of work, like painting and flooring, but Joe was able to do much of it and work with the contractors when needed.  He was finally able to get a job as a school-bus driver. 

          Condo on Doral Dr.

          A campaign was in full swing to raise money for the renovation of the Missouri Theatre owned by the Missouri Symphony Society founded by Hugo and Lucy Vianello.  In addition to contributing to that project, we became members of the Symphony Society.  We were enjoying the movies at Ragtag, the plays put on by Stephens College students and by the Columbia Entertainment Company community actors.  After experiencing the lake’s lack of cultural opportunities and previously having taken Columbia’s for granted, Diane and I were determined to not miss the many possibilities in Columbia.  For the first time, adult learning classes were offered by the Missouri University Extension at the old alumni center, and we enrolled in two, one on the Geography of the Middle East taught by Larry Brown and the other on the Politics of India taught by Paul Wallace.

          In the fall, we made another trip to Colorado to visit Karen and Joe.  The first day we visited the Denver Botanical Garden that was having a special exhibit of stone art sculptures made by African artists from Zimbabwe.  The next day instead of driving all the way downtown, we stopped at a light rail station near their home in Lakewood for a train ride to Union Station in the lower downtown district.  It had taken almost 10 years for a rail line to reach the city of Lakewood in the western part of Denver, but the system of rapid transit service was continuing to expand.  On the way back, the train became very crowded with many passengers headed to the football stadium where the Broncos were playing.

          Denver Botanical Garden exhibit

          A Denver light rail station

In November, we flew to Boston for the wedding of our friends Carole Sue and Ron’s daughter, Alexandra.  It took place in the Harvard chapel followed by a dinner and dance.  We went on a tour of the Harvard campus and walked the Freedom Trail to see many historic sites, including the USS Constitution, the Old State House and Faneuil Hall.  From Boston, it was a short trip to Concord, MA to see the horse farm my niece, Joyce, and her husband owned.  They boarded horses, but she mainly trained Hunter and Jumper horses to perform in horse shows.  The property contained a historic old barn with two levels of stalls and a separate enclosed building for use in training and exercising the horses in inclement weather.  There was also a new house for Joyce, her husband and their two small boys.  I enjoyed talking with her about what it was like to own your own business.  The trip ended with a drive back to the Boston airport and a flight home.

Memorial Hall honoring Harvard students who died in the Civil War.

Faneuil Hall where citizens protested the Sugar Act in 1764 and established the doctrine “no taxation without representation.”  I peacefully look on wearing my blue coat.

USS Constitution

Jeanne’s niece Joyce with her sons, Jack and Pierce

          In the November election, Bush won a second term and Nancy Farmer was not going to the Senate.  Instead, it was the beginning of Kit Bond’s Senate career.  Missouri Republicans won three of the five state executive branch races.  Clare McCaskill narrowly lost her bid to be the Governor of Missouri, but the two Carnahan’s, Robin and Russ, won their offices.

          Then it was time to prepare for our upcoming trip with Olivia to Antarctica.  There was a long list of clothing required from a balaclava to silk underwear and waterproof pull-on boots.  The trip started in Buenos Aires which we dearly loved with its good Italian food, a result of its being an early destination of many Italians.  The city tour was fun.  We saw the city cemetery with Evita’s tomb and the bowls of milk for the many cats.  An anonymous woman whose husband was buried there funded their care and feeding.  On our visit to the Plaza de Mayo and surrounding governmental buildings we saw the balconies from which both Evita and Juan Perón, her husband, spoke to the people.  There were demonstrations going on in the Plaza and homeless people visible in several areas of the city.

Evita’s tomb

        Presidential Palace with balconies from which Evita and Juan Perón spoke to adoring crowds.

Next, we flew to Ushuaia to board our ship, the Orion, and start our cruise to Antarctica on the body of water known as the Drake Passage, named for the English seaman, Sir Francis Drake.  It is renowned for its rough seas, but on this day, it could have been named Lake Drake, the waters were so calm. 

In 1916, the British explorer Ernest Shackleton and his crew sought refuge on Elephant Island following the loss of their ship Endurance in the pack ice of the Weddell Sea.  We stopped there successfully making our first transfer from the cruise ship to a zodiac wearing our waterproof boots.  We were glad to have them as it was a “wet” landing.  The shore was too rocky for the zodiac to be able to pull completely up on land.  With help from the crew, we stepped from the zodiac onto a wooden box and then stepped into shallow water and walked between rocks to the level ground onshore.  We enjoyed watching the local seals and sea lions.  Before our ship headed to our voyage along the Antarctic Peninsula, it made a brief stop so that the Olivia women could step foot on the actual continent of Antarctica.

        Landing platform held in place by ropes with a zodiac being unloaded by the husky crew members.  The seas were not always this calm.

Elephant Island

There were stops at a couple of nearby islands but the main interest was seeing the colonies of penguins.  Instead of assigning a number to each group of women during shore visits, the groups were named for the varieties of penguins we would see, like the chinstrap, macaroni, gentoo, and Adélie. As we sailed south, the ice flow increased.  Ours was the first ship this season to go as far as the British research station where we all bought many postcards, stamps and paraphernalia.

Rocky Landing with Orion in background

Me and thousands of penguins on the hillsides

 Chinstrap and Adelie Penguins

Nesting Gentoos

Orion behind iceberg

Zodiacs by ice flow

Calving glacier

        British Station

At lunch time back on the ship, Diane and I noticed a woman suddenly having some kind of seizure.  The ship’s doctor was called, although there was always an Olivia woman with a medical background on board.  Soon, there was an announcement that there was a medical emergency and that we would be proceeding with haste back toward the Italian research station where the woman could be airlifted to the mainland.  In exchange for arranging the transportation of the sick woman and her partner to Santiago, the ship’s captain agreed to take the visiting Bulgarian propaganda minister to his next location.

Every evening we were entertained by Lisa Koch, a creative and talented Olivia singer.  She made up lyrics that described the day’s activities and set them to music.  The evening entertainment when the Bulgarian entourage came on board was quite different.  Of course, they had no idea they would be boarding a shipload of lesbians, so some of our women plotted to get the minister very drunk, which turned out to be very easy.  He then acted as though he was in heaven, surrounded by women with whom to dance and impress.  Meanwhile others of us supplied the women in his group with Olivia information.  What a night for us and no doubt for him.

Chilean Station

Bulgarian Ambassador and entourage

Lisa Koch entertaining

On the way back to Ushuaia, the Drake Passage lived up to its reputation, with very heavy seas and waves that were many feet high.  We were awakened in the night by the bathroom and closet doors banging.  Luckily, neither Diane nor I ever got seasick.  In the morning, we got dressed, opened the door and saw the railings on either side of the hallway populated with barf bags.  As we entered the dining area, there were overhead ropes to hang onto as you slowly walked to your table.  We had no problem eating a full breakfast.  The waiters were well-accustomed to the rough seas and poured our coffee with ease.

Barf bags on ship’s railing during return to Ushuaia on Drake Passage

Port in Ushuaia

After we returned to Columbia in early 2005, Diane and I entertained our friends by demonstrating how we put on the layers of clothing for our visits to the penguin colonies, starting with the silk underwear and ending with the difficulty of bending over to pull on our boots after already being dressed in our heavy clothing and bulky red jackets topped with a lifejacket.  After the demonstration, Diane and I sang the songs with Lisa Koch’s made-up lyrics describing each day’s activities.  We explained that the weather turned out to be so nice that the warm clothing often felt unnecessary, and once onshore, the coats were sometimes opened.  However, the ship’s crew told us that the weather in the Antarctic Peninsula could turn on a dime, and when passengers were off the ship, they were required to be dressed to survive that change until they could be brought back to the ship.  Despite the medical emergency, this was one of the best trips we had taken.