Dwindling SIS and Touring China in 2008

 

          At the beginning of 2008, SIS was limping along with only six minor contracts that provided a small annual income of about $15,000.  This was a big decrease from the earlier ten to fifteen contracts of which three or more were major and yielded an annual income of $150,000 to $250,000.  Now, after paying Diane’s salary and our health insurance, the business was operating at a loss.  The good news was that since I wasn’t spending as much time on my business, I did have time to work on the last paper I wanted to publish.  Developing the statistics for that paper required calculations using SAS software.  However, I could no longer use the SAS program on my PC to perform statistical or mathematical calculations. 

I say “my PC,” but it had actually been a Pfizer PC that they did not want returned after my contract expired in 2006.  Pfizer also canceled my access to their St. Louis computer and the license for SAS on the PC.  The cost of an annual license to retain SAS on the PC was more expensive than I could justify.  Access to SAS was important.  I not only needed it to perform the calculations for my paper, but also for the needs of my remaining clients.  They often wanted their biological assays validated to show they were producing the results for which they were designed.  The FDA considered the use of SAS procedures acceptable for that purpose, but not calculations in Excel.  Luckily, one of my remaining clients gave me remote access to a system with SAS.

          I was so glad that my first paper, “Defining the linear portion of a sigmoid-shaped curve: bend points,” had been published.  Its findings would be used in the next paper, “Guidelines for accurate EC/IC50 estimation.”  I had personally seen too many instances of these values being put into a database when the values actually had very doubtful accuracy.  If I did a thorough job, this next paper should prove beneficial to the entire scientific community.  It would take most of the year to do the calculations and writing of my next paper so that I could submit it to a peer reviewed journal.  My task started with programming SAS using its nonlinear curve procedure to fit the usual type of dose-concentration curves for biological assay data.  The equations for each curve were then used to calculate an EC/IC50 (effective/inhibitory concentration at 50% response).

          Typical dose-concentration curve

  

To demonstrate that the recommendations I made in the paper were valid for a wide range of assay conditions, I considered 81 scenarios, randomly generating five hundred sets of assay data for each one, requiring SAS to fit 40,500 curves.  After writing the SAS program I began making test runs.  At first, the program would “blow up” with an error code.  Each test took several hours or overnight to run.  Finally, I got the results I could use to develop the figures and tables for the paper.

I wrote an introduction to the topic, description of the issues, methodology, results, and conclusions.  Because of the precision required, academic writing is not easy, and like any writing, it requires review, then more review.  I felt the need for help and reached out to Nancy, who was the chair of the Department of Statistics at the University of Missouri.  She was very gracious, widely published herself, had worked with many graduate students, and agreed to read my paper and help me get it in shape for publication.  It turned out that she and her husband (who also worked for the university) lived nearby and we became friends as well as colleagues.

           Meanwhile, I continued to do volunteer work in Columbia.   There was a citizen committee whose purpose was to evaluate the five sites being proposed for the next high school.  The Columbia Public Schools Superintendent, Phyllis Chase, called and asked me to advise her on how to best evaluate these sites.  At a meeting in her office, she told me that her initial idea was to have each committee member rank the sites in order of 1 to 5 (1 being the highest recommendation).  By calculating the average for each site, the sites with the lowest value would have the highest recommendation.  I recognized that as the most common mistake made by non-statisticians, because it assumes all sites just differ by a value of 1.  However, some sites may be about equally worthy, while others shouldn’t be considered at all.

I proposed an alternative approach of first rating each site before ranking them.  I recommended they make a list of the important site attributes that should be considered, for example, land acquisition cost, surrounding streets and roads, availability of utilities and so forth.  This helps ensure all the committee members are looking at the same aspects.  Site by site, the committee members should evaluate each attribute as well as the site overall using a scale such as 1=very good to 7=very bad.  Not going into details, an average score could then be derived for each site.  These scores could then be arranged in rank order from lowest to highest, the lowest score indicating the most highly recommended site.  Using this method there is the opportunity for two or more scores to be very low indicating they were the best sites and further evaluation of them might be warranted.  This method would provide the most defensible way of making the recommendation of a location for the next high school.  I enjoyed being able to provide this help to the school system.

In February 2008, Ragtag moved to its new location on Hitt Street, just in time for the True/False Film Festival.  The documentary film festival started in 2004, but it was a few years before Diane and I joined in.  This year Earlene and Vince (my sister and her husband) attended with us for the first time.  In addition to our earlier contributions, Diane and I donated money to have our names placed on the back of two seats in the large Ragtag theater.  The Uprise Bakery also relocated to the same old Coca Cola building as well as a video rental business. 

We spent March preparing for our next adventure.  The National Wildlife Federation hired a company to prepare an exciting trip to China.  It not only included the traditional stops at notable locations, but also visits to research and animal breeding facilities in many parts of the country.  What an unusual opportunity!  We were able to convince two women we had traveled with on several Olivia trips, Fran and Leslie, to join us.  Fran was a Ph.D. psychologist and Leslie was a technical expert in computer security.  They couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit pandas. 

In preparation, Diane and I enrolled in an adult learning class at Rockbridge High School to learn some Chinese.  Comparing my ability to hear the intonations of the Chinese language to other students in the class, it became obvious to me that I just couldn’t negotiate the language, and I quickly gave up.  We got our typhoid vaccine shots, Chinese visas and planned our own pre-trip.

The main trip began in Beijing, but American Airlines, our preferred carrier, only flew directly to Shanghai.  Therefore, we planned to spend a few days in Shanghai.  In April 2008, we flew from St. Louis through Chicago and Tokyo.  We were nervous about negotiating transportation from the Shanghai airport, so we asked the hotel to arrange our transfer to the Marriott Renaissance Hotel Pudong, Shanghai (where I could use my Marriott points).  We enjoyed the concierge facility at the top level of the hotel, particularly at night when we could view the light displays on the tall office buildings.  Our room had amazing features, like the outside corner where two walls of glass came together with no apparent bracketing.  We could only hope the glass walls were joined so tightly that we didn’t have to worry about them breaking apart.

        Nighttime view of displays on office buildings   
        


The hotel helped arrange an English-language city tour the next morning.  A nice young Chinese man took us to several places, including Century Park, the Shanghai History Museum, a monastery, and a market where we saw cages of small animals and crickets for sale.  Our Denver cricket scientist friend, Joe, would have loved it.  The crickets were not being sold for food, but for cricket fighting.  At lunch, our guide chided us to not leave one grain of rice in our bowl.  As a child our parents told us to clean our plates saying “Think of all those poor starving children in China.”   Was his reason the same, or just local good manners?  We weren’t sure.

Our guide

 

Scale model of Shanghai at the History Museum

 

 Fighting crickets for sale

 

Our guide dropped us back at the hotel and after refreshing, we took a walk in the neighborhood.  In 2008, China had yet to tear down all the old parts of Shanghai.  We walked out the front doors of the hotel, turned left on the sidewalk, walked down the street, turned left again and into a different world.  After walking another block or two, we entered ancient China.  We saw people carrying their towels to use in the bathhouse and buckets of night soil to empty in the community disposal site.  Of course, we saw many contrasting views during our visit, such as modern cars on the same street with animal carts.

Old part of town in foreground

 

That afternoon, we took the hotel transportation to the airport for our flight to Beijing.  We waited at the domestic airport terminal in Beijing for our promised National Wildlife driver.  We tried to find someone who spoke English so they could help us get in contact with our tour people, but we had no luck.  Finally, we went outside where our travel experience told us there would be a line for taxis.  When we got to the front of the line, we kept saying “English, English.”  We were directed to Tony Wei's Beijing Taxi and a cab driven by a man who spoke the language very well.  After our experience in Sydney, we were prepared and handed him the paper with the name and address of our hotel.  He described the sights, but I was struck by all the magpies roosting in the small trees on the way out of the airport.  We heard many times about China’s efforts to combat pollution by planting trees.  When we reached our hotel, we learned that our tour leaders had been looking for us at the international airport, not remembering that we were arriving on a domestic flight.

The next morning, we met the rest of our tour group.  We enjoyed seeing our friends, Fran and Leslie, and soon discovered there were also two gay men on the trip.  Our group of six often ate meals together.  The first day we toured the famous sights in Beijing, including Tiananmen Square, the Mao Mausoleum, the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, and the Bird’s Nest.  Visiting Tiananmen Square brought back memories of watching on TV the massacre that occurred there in 1989.  There was a very long line of Chinese families waiting to walk by Mao’s body on display in his Tomb.  Our group was taken to a shorter tourist line, and I walked by quietly.  We were also able to enter the nearby Great Hall of the People, used by the government for legislative and ceremonial activities.  We drove by the Bird’s Nest, the stadium for the Olympic games which were scheduled to start in August.  We saw caterpillars along with mule-drawn vehicles all at work on the grounds.  After lunch we visited the Liulichang Culture Street where we were told about early methods of creating various art and written objects.  That night, there was a special family-style welcome dinner at a restaurant in an older part of the city.

Chinese family posing in front of Mao’s Tomb in Tiananmen Square

 

Part of the Forbidden City

 

Summer Palace

 

Bird’s Nest Under Construction

 

The next day we drove out of Beijing to what we were told was a less frequented entrance and the best restored section of the Great Wall of China.  We were free to walk along the three-mile section, enjoying the view between the ancient towers.  I was in one of the towers and spotted a wasp flying around.  I was content to just shoo it away, but the guard was not.  I was surprised by his determination for the kill.  While departing the Great Wall, we saw the staff preparing for a visit by a diplomatic dignitary.  As we drove away, we could see a soldier stationed on every block.  It was quite a display of military personnel.  After lunch, we drove to the area containing the Thirteen Tombs of the Ming Dynasty.  Only a few were restored for public viewing.

Great Wall up and down between towers

 

Leslie taking picture of me walking along with Fran

 

The next day, we were up early for our flight to Harbin in the far north of China.  This was our second in-country flight with many more to come.  The Harbin architecture reflected the Russian influence from when Russian engineers helped construct the eastern end of the Trans-Siberian Railroad. 

After lunch, we left for the Siberian Tiger Park.  We were eager to see the tigers.  We all got in a van that had many windows for viewing and a sliding roof.  The van drove around an enclosure containing prowling tigers who were watching us carefully.  A man in our van was handed a live chicken and instructed to throw it out the roof.  We watched the tigers stalk, kill, and devour the chicken.  They must have been hungry tigers.  Then we were asked if anyone wanted to contribute money for more chickens, repeating the entire exercise several times.  It was pretty brutal.

Siberian Tigers in their fenced enclosure

 

Van from which chickens were thrown through the roof

 

Stalking tiger

 

Siberian Tiger with chicken

 

After we left the van, we visited the zoo portion of the park where we saw an albino tiger.  Finally, we met with the park’s director and learned about their breeding program and the leasing of Siberian tigers to zoos around the world, including the US.

Park directors

 

Before the day ended, our group was given a city tour of Harbin, visiting Liansheng Square and Sophia Church, a former Russian Orthodox church that now houses an art gallery with photographs of the city over time.

Sophia Church in square

 

Inside Sophia church

 

Early the next morning, we boarded a train for the two-and-a-half-hour trip north to Qiqihar, a rural farming community.  When we arrived, the town was not what I expected.  Every block in both Shanghai and Beijing seemed to have someone with a broom sweeping the street and I never saw any litter.  Here, there were papers and plastic bags blowing around, and it looked even dirtier than most US cities. I was left wondering why it was different.

A van took us to the Zhalong Nature Reserve, a marvelous wetland.  An expert ornithologist led us through the reserve, renowned for its birding in general, but for its large crane population in particular.  We spotted several of the rare red-crowned cranes, known as a symbol of luck, longevity, and fidelity.  Many of these cranes were penned to protect them while breeding.  Local farmers were paid to grow and harvest grain that was distributed in the area to lure birds to the wetlands.  On our way to the visitor center, we stopped to visit the primitive hut of a family who worked the fields.   From the look of the souvenirs at the visitor center, like the nested dolls, we could tell that many of the tourists were Russian.

Grain for cranes

 

Red-crowned cranes

 

Diane and I posing in front of reserve

 

Farmer’s home

 

Kitchen

 

After the train ride back to Harbin, we had dinner.  In the north, I was surprised by the dishes containing potatoes, not a vegetable I had ever seen served in a US Chinese restaurant.  As we traveled south, I never saw them served again either.  We were becoming accustomed to the style of our meals, where many selections were served and passed around the table.  Diane would taste test the dishes and warn me if one was too spicy hot.  If it was not hot and really looked good to me, I would take a big helping. Otherwise, I might just pass it on, as there were always many dishes to choose from.  Diane and I usually had a glass of beer for our beverage, as it was never strong.  We reasoned that a slightly alcoholic drink might be safer than water, and neither of us enjoyed tea or soda. I could tell there would be no new dishes when a dessert was served.

The next morning, we left for Xian taking our third and fourth airplane rides in China.  Flying in China was never pleasant.  The planes were always very full.  Upon seeing the start of an exodus, we learned to jump up and get into the aisles with our elbows out if we wanted to make any progress getting out of the airplane.  All of the passengers, men and women alike, were very pushy.  Also, the pollution was awful, often bringing tears to my eyes even high up in the airplane.  We hoped to avoid head colds.

Our hotel in Xian was a short walk from the Wild Goose Pagoda, one of the most famous Buddhist pagodas in China.   Early the next morning, we attended a Tai Chi lesson at the hotel, but did not enjoy it at all.  The instructor was very strict and did not like the way we did the form, spending a lot of time correcting our posture, moving our feet and arms.  We should have known better and wouldn’t repeat the effort on this trip.

Me at the Wild Goose Pagoda

 

Tai Chi instructor

 

After breakfast we visited the Emperor Qin's Army of Terracotta Warriors.  They were accidentally discovered by farmers in 1974.  In 1979, a museum was built over the pit to protect the army of over 6,000 life-sized soldiers and horses that would ultimately be unearthed.  We enjoyed lunch at a nearby restaurant where we could watch workers stretching and making the noodles we had for lunch.  These were the best noodles I have ever eaten.  In the afternoon, we visited other sites in Xian including the Great Mosque and the Muslim Quarter, which had primarily become a tourist destination.

Terracotta Warriors under cover

 

Terracotta Warriors up close

 

Great Mosque of Xian

 

The next day we took our fifth flight to Chengdu.  First, we visited the giant panda Breeding Research Base where an expert led us on a tour of their many semi-natural enclosures.  It was like a panda zoo.  The pandas were all happily chewing on bamboo leaves, the only kind of leaves their digestive systems tolerate.  Panda populations are threatened by the human destruction of bamboo groves.  I was surprised to see one small red panda that reminded me of a raccoon.

Panda eating bamboo

 

Red panda

 

After lunch, we loaded into a van for the ride from Chengdu through the mountains on a very hilly, curvy road, passing villages of rundown houses before arriving at the Giant Panda Conservation and Research Center located within the Wolong Nature Preserve.  There was one nearby motel and one restaurant.  Like some of the other places where we stayed during this trip, we were amused to see condoms in the nightstands courtesy of the Chinese government.  We were turned off by the dead fish floating in the water usually present in Chinese restaurants from which patrons chose the fish they wanted served.  No fish for us!  Despite all this, we slept and ate well.

The next day, an expert at the center described their goal of increasing the captive population of giant pandas, with the ultimate purpose of releasing them into the wild. Meanwhile, like the Siberian tigers, the pandas were leased to zoos.  The San Diego Zoo cooperated in the breeding program.  We then toured the facility meeting the pandas in zoo-like enclosures and hearing how the breeding program operated, particularly how the females were acclimated to the males before mating was attempted.

Panda directors

 

Panda playground

 

Then the moment our friends had waited for arrived.  They were given a plastic sheet to place over their clothes and a baby panda was brought for them to hold on their laps, eliciting big smiles.  Diane and I did not participate in this exercise.  Cats were the only animal I wanted to touch, and Diane wanted nothing to do with any animal.

Smiling Fran with panda

 

We left Wolong on April 20.  Only a month later, on May 12, a huge earthquake rocked the area including the panda center, killing several guards and a panda, injuring other pandas while some escaped into the surrounding forest.  Some British tourists who were staying at the same motel we had used had to be evacuated by helicopter.  Many of the villages we had passed were almost leveled.  We were lucky to have been there when we were!

Our vehicle made the treacherous trip back to Chengdu, and after lunch, we had two more airline flights to reach the southernmost city in China we were visiting, Jinghong, near the borders of Myanmar (Burma) and Laos. This is an interesting part of China populated by the Dai people who even write in a different script from most of China.

Note the different script on the left side of the sign

 

The next morning, we drove to the XishuangBanna Wild Elephant Valley and Tropical Botanical Garden.  We rode a cable car up the valley and hiked back down, led by a local expert, looking for wild elephants.  We saw many stands in the trees that visitors used for that purpose, but failed to spot any elephants ourselves.  We visited a butterfly farm and viewed the local flora and fauna that inhabited this rainforest.  On the way out, I was disturbed by two sights.  One was a live bear chained to a post ostensibly to entertain the guests.  The other was the only elephant we saw, a small, lonely looking elephant tethered to the ground so visitors could say they had seen an elephant.  In the afternoon we walked through their botanical garden with a botanist.

Cable car up the valley

 

Elevated walk to see elephants and stands

 

Chained bear

 

Small Asian elephant

 

After dinner, we had the wonderful experience of participating in the local Water Festival entertainment.  Our group had front row seats in a theater.  We didn’t initially realize that we were sitting in front of a section that was full of water.  The entertainment on the stage consisted of dancing to music with liberal splashing of water on each other signifying good luck.  Towards the end, our group was given plastic to spread on our bodies, and the action changed in that the splashers were now in the area in front of us and we received a lot of good luck water.  What fun!

Water Festival pictures

        

 

          Oh boy!  Two more flights, first from Jinghong to Kunming where we had lunch and a tea ceremony.  Then on to Chongqing where our cruise down the Yangtze River would embark.  Before boarding we had a brief city tour and then visited the China Three Gorges Art Exhibition Center.  We had read the book by Peter Hessler entitled River Town.  It told the story about his two years with the Peace Corps teaching English to students living in a town on the Yangtze.  The city had marked lines on the streets indicating how high the water would come when the water had finished filling behind the dam.  We would be traveling by that town.  After dinner, we walked across boards to access the President 1 cruise ship.

          Yangtze River passenger boats

 

We spent three nights on board the ship.  We were told that on the last night there would be a talent show by both the tourists and the staff.  I discovered that a woman with a different tour group was also a University of Kansas graduate.  We agreed to do a Rock Chalk Jayhawk chant after singing the KU alma mater for the talent show.  The next day the ship stopped at Fengdu for a shore excursion to the “Ghost City on Ming Mountain.”  It had shrines that combined the cultures of Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism along with the mystique of ghosts.  Diane and I could understand and accept all of it except the stories about the ghosts. 

The next day, I was able to go out on deck to view the scenic Outang and Wu Gorges.  However, I had developed the dreaded head cold and did not go with Diane on that day’s shore excursion.  It was called Shennong Stream and included a small boat trip through narrow rapids.  I also did not participate in the talent show that night, staying in bed drinking more chicken soup.  I felt well enough at Sandouping to go view the dam and locks.  Impressive!  We left the ship at YiChang.  We stopped at yet another state-run store selling art where we bought two paintings.  One was entitled The Girl Who Raised the Chicken and another reminded us of our trip to the crane reserve.  It used silk embroidery to represent a pine tree and red-crowned cranes.  These were added to our other purchases on the trip: a small carved jade dragon, a silk quilt and box of tea.

Yangtze River gorge

 

Men pulling small boats through rapids

 

Talent show that I missed

 

Diane and me at the dam on the Yangtze

 

Locks at the dam for boats to be able to go up and down the river

 

We flew from Yichang to Beijing where we had a sumptuous farewell dinner of Peking Duck.  The next day Diane and I flew back to Shanghai, our eleventh flight in China.  After a good night’s sleep at the Renaissance Yu Garden Hotel, we enjoyed a final city tour.  It included a stroll along the Bund, a riverfront area that had been famous for its international flavor.  Even though we were weary of flying, Diane and I steeled ourselves for two more flights that would return us to our home.

The Bund