Tahiti, Caves and Big Bend

 

          As usual, Diane and I brought in 2009 with our friends.  I was starting to relax about my finances, thinking I could make it two more years when Diane would start Medicare and I could drop my expensive company insurance plan.  Income from my Social Security, Missouri bonds and the rent Sue and Joe were paying each month were very helpful.  My U.S. and Missouri income taxes were negligible.  This was the result of having no capital gains from selling stocks and net losses on both my business and the rental condo. 

Diane and I continued to enjoy participating in our usual Columbia activities, particularly the times we could share dinners with friends.  We very much enjoyed our life together in Columbia.   Our first short trip of the year was in early February to attend the marriage of niece Tracy to Tim.  We teased her a lot about her changing her five-letter last name of Booth for her husband’s fourteen-letter last name of Rauschenberger.  Tracy’s parents, Sue and Joe, and sister Kelly flew to New Jersey for the wedding.  They were joined by their son Joe, Jr. and his wife Angie.  Now all of Sue and Joe’s children would be married.  Tracy was their only child who had graduated from college, in this case Rutgers, Diane’s alma mater.  Tim was a college graduate and high school teacher.

Family with bride and groom. From the left: Kelly, Sue, Joe, Tracy, Tim, Angie and Joe, Jr.

 

After Earlene and Vince’s late February/early March visit to join us at the True/False documentary film festival, it was time for Diane and I to take our Olivia two-for-the-price-of-one trip.  Since Tahiti is in the South Pacific, we first flew to Los Angeles on American Airlines.  Then we boarded Air France’s nine-hour flight to Papeete, the capital of Tahiti.  We needed to recuperate, so we spent two nights in a hotel that our friend Craig arranged for us.  The first day we took a tour which circled the island enabling us to see the beautiful waterfalls, grottos, and gardens.  We stopped at the Paul Gauguin Museum that told the story of this artist’s stay in Tahiti.  The next morning, we just walked around the town, visiting the market and seeing the fresh produce and seafood, including some large South Pacific tuna.

Hotel in Papeete

 

        View from hotel grounds with Jeanne & Diane

 

        Waterfall on island trip

 

        Tuna

 

The next afternoon we checked in with Olivia and boarded the very luxurious ship, the Regent Seven Seas' Paul Gauguin.  We cruised around the south seas visiting several islands, all very lush and vibrant.  Twice we were given concerts on board the ship, once by native women playing Tahitian musical instruments and dancing.  A farewell performance was given by both men and women.  The dress and movements reminded me of similar performances we had seen in Hawaii.  It is thought that the settlers of Hawaii left from these Polynesian islands.

The Regent Seven Seas Paul Gauguin

 

Tahitian Rock Band

 

There were several highlights for me.  On the first island we visited, we were driven around in Land Rover Defender Trucks.  The back of the trucks had been covered and the locals had been very imaginative about constructing seats with cushioned backs along both sides.  At a stop they served us fresh fruits and shredded coconut picked while we watched.  They entertained us with singing and playing string instruments.  Repeating an occurrence Diane and I had in New Zealand (another South Pacific country), we were all asked to choose a song to sing.  Again, the one everybody knew was “You are my sunshine.”

        Land Rover Defender Trucks

 

Shredded coconut and banana

 

Where we sang “You are my sunshine”

 

We visited an oyster farm which grew them with the hope that they would produce a black pearl.  Our next stop was at a vanilla bean plantation.  We spent one day on a “private island” where we could swim. The water was so shallow that we could walk out to the reef using our snorkel masks and equipment to see the colorful fish. 

Oyster farm exhibit

 

Fresh vanilla beans

 

Swimming in the shallow water

 

On another island, a gay American man took us on a tour to visit some remarkable archeological sites.  He lived in Tahiti with his partner who was a native, and our guide commented on the machismo of Tahitian males.

I listen to our resting archeological guide (I am not a ground sitter)

 

When we arrived at the airport for our 1:15 am flight home, the waiting area was packed.  Our flight wasn’t the only one leaving at that unfriendly hour.  Our Olivia friends were exhausted.  While waiting to board, they laid on the floor and fell asleep.  We enjoyed our tour of the Tahitian South Pacific, but I’m not sure we would have done it without the lure of the two-for-the-price-of-one.  Even then, the cost for one trip plus two airplane tickets was not cheap.

The spring was very busy after our return to Columbia. To help raise money to improve the Farmer’s Market, we sponsored a dinner for four couples at the home of one of the vendors.  Diane and I also served as judges at the April election for city council and school board.  Bob and I continued our meetings about math textbooks and materials to be adopted by the Columbia Public Schools.  

In the summer I submitted my second paper to the Journal of Pharmaceutical Statistics.  I was very surprised when the editor asked me if I could tell him one or more names of statisticians who would be qualified to review the paper.  Of course, I gave him Nancy’s name.  He didn’t know that she was my friend and had been helping me with the paper.  It wouldn’t have taken a super sleuth to discover that she was in the local Statistics Department.  I was surprised when she told me that he actually did ask her to be one of the reviewers.  She accepted

By the first of September, it was time for a U.S. driving trip with stops along the way before visiting our families on the East Coast.  We started out by entertaining our interest in caves.  Previously Diane and I had visited the Blanchard Springs Cave in Arkansas and the Onondaga Cave at a Missouri state park southwest of St. Louis.  Our first stop on this trip was at Mammoth Cave in Kentucky where I had been as a young girl with my parents.  It is the world's longest known cave system, over 400 miles in length.  Although much of it is the typical limestone cave, part of it has been protected by a cap of sandstone.  Showing that we were in good physical condition, the next morning we walked the four miles and 1,313 mandatory stairs that were part of the Grand Avenue Tour of the cave.

Mammoth Cave

 

That afternoon we drove to the Shaker Village where we had reservations for a dinner of fresh seasonal ingredients.  The tour the next morning took us from building to building while explaining the beliefs and history of the Shakers.  They were at their height in the early 1800s, believing in the communal ownership of property and equality of the sexes.  However, since they opposed marriage and were proponents of celibacy, they were doomed to failure as a major subculture.

         Beautiful staircase at Shaker restaurant

 

After two days of driving, we arrived in Princeton, NJ to visit my sister, Earlene and her husband, Vince.  Vince cooked dinner, served with copious glasses of wine.  The next day they took us to Philadelphia to visit the Franklin Institute, a science museum, and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.  It was entertaining to watch Vince try to cope with a car GPS that insisted on sending him across a city bridge that was closed.  After going in circles for the third time, he finally drove to another bridge and then used the GPS.  We spent a day visiting Booth family relatives and another day at a Baumunk family get together at Craig and Mary Ann’s.

Three generations of Baumunk’s

 

On our way to East Stroudsburg, PA the next day, we stopped to have lunch with my University of Missouri research assistant friend, Chao-Min.  After a day of visiting Diane’s nephew Joe Belanger, wife Angie and their two young sons, we headed west, using the northern route through Toledo, Ohio.  Before going home, we stopped in Iowa City to see a woman we had met on an Olivia cruise.  She took us to many places in the short time we were there: the Amana Colonies, the Cedar Rapids Art Museum to see the Grant Wood collection, the Iowa Old Capitol Building in Iowa City, and the Hoover Presidential Library in West Branch.

Diane with Belanger family

 

The Amana Colonies woolen textile mill

 

Shortly after returning to Columbia, we, and many others from Columbia, attended a public appearance by our Senator Claire McCaskill at the Lewis and Clark Middle School in Jefferson City.  Diane helped manage the crowd.  She had been working as a volunteer in Claire’s constituent office which opened in Columbia after she was elected in 2006.

In September, I received a letter from the Columbia Public Schools advising me of the upcoming meetings of yet another committee on which I had volunteered to serve, the “Student Performance Committee.”  I was asked to help develop a plan that would guide the district’s teachers over the next five years, by developing specific, measurable objectives for improving student performance.  Of course, I chose the subcommittee on math.  Bob was smart not to join me on this committee.  

Before the month of September was over, the editor of the journal forwarded the comments by the two reviewers on my paper.  I was asked to consider them and invited to re-submit the paper.  I worked on either incorporating or rejecting their comments, writing a letter to the editor describing my actions.  Of course, Nancy made useful suggestions, most of which could be incorporated in some way.  After reading the second reviewer’s comments, I wondered how good his command of the English language was, let alone his statistical knowledge.  I did give him the courtesy of a thorough response to each of his comments.  I sent my response and revised paper back to the editor. 

The editor only asked my friend Nancy to review the revised paper.  Her comments were even shorter, making it easy for me to respond.  The editor approved my revised paper, “Guidelines for accurate EC50/IC50 estimation,” for publication in the journal Pharmaceutical Statistics.  After reviewing and correcting the journal’s proofs of the paper in March, it was published online in April 2010 where it could be purchased for a fee.  I celebrated what I considered the victory of now having my two papers concerning the use of EC50s published in the respected scientific literature.  I hoped their availability would improve the science in the fields that relied heavily on EC50 estimation.  I must have succeeded since by 2024, the article had over 45,000 reads and almost 700 citations.

The next big event in our house happened over the Christmas holidays in 2009.  Diane was active in the Women’s Symphony League that raised money for the Missouri Symphony.  She even served as President one year.  One of their fundraising activities was selling tickets to the annual Holiday Home Tour.  We volunteered our home to be on the tour that year.  We recruited our friends to serve as docents in the rooms and wrote up scripts they could use to describe the contents.

Tour homes were supposed to contain large seasonal decorations, something to which Diane and I said: “Bah Humbug.”  We didn’t want an indoor tree and instead set around large, red poinsettia plants.  We hired a man who was expert at trimming outdoor trees with strings of lights.  Our maple tree was a manageable size.  We agreed to buy the strings of lights and bulbs and allow him to keep all of them in exchange for his adorning our tree.  It was all the tree decoration we had ever wanted. 

Our “magic” tree of lights

 

We said goodbye to 2009.  At the beginning of 2010, I only had three minor clients having lost the company whose computer system I had used for the calculations in my paper.  I just finished that work in the nick of time.  Now, I could only do calculations in Excel that didn’t require FDA validation.  I was getting used to retirement and was starting to tell old clients, or new ones that inquired, that I was no longer doing statistical consulting. 

Early in February, we had another Tai Chi celebration at our house for the Chinese New Year of the Tiger.  We provided plenty of food and drinks for the large hungry crowd of our classmates and their families. Our master, Kenny Greene, had started teaching us the 108-form, and we all could see it would take a while to learn.  Earlene and Vince came late in February for True/False. 

Our first big trip of 2010 was a week’s tour of Big Bend National Park in Texas.  Our tour company, Off the Beaten Path, was recommended by The National Wildlife Federation.  I found it easy to expand this tour to a three-week driving trip.  Leaving Columbia in mid-March, we drove to Oklahoma City where we started the next day by visiting the state capital.  After lunch at the Brewery in the Bricktown area, we toured the National Memorial and Museum on the grounds of the Murrah Federal Building which was bombed on April 19, 1995.  The bombing was perpetrated by two anti-government extremists with white supremacist, right-wing terrorist sympathies, Timothy McVeigh and Terry Nichols.  I felt like the exhibits soft-pedaled that aspect of the bombing.  We still had time to visit the Oklahoma City Art Museum Dale Chihuly Collection.  This art museum is host to the largest Chihuly exhibit in the world because Dale Chihuly’s mother was born in Oklahoma City.  Our last visit of the day was to the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum where we saw some unique guitars made for Les Paul and Mary Ford and many others, as well as fabulous western art, paintings and sculptures.

Heading toward Santa Fe, New Mexico, we spent the night in Amarillo, Texas, visiting the Palo Duro Canyon State Park in the afternoon.  It is the second largest canyon in the U.S.  The next day, we joined our friends Joe and Karen from Denver at the two-bedroom casita they had rented for us to share in Santa Fe.  The next morning, we drove to the Georgia O'Keefe home for a tour.  After lunch we went to the New Mexico State Capital often referred to as the "Roundhouse" because of its circular structure.  It houses a permanent, public collection of contemporary art by artists of New Mexico.  Our final day with Joe and Karen was the day of the museums:  Museum of International Folk Art, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture and Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian.  It was good to see our dear friends and enjoy the southwestern cuisine of Santa Fe.

Karen and Joe in Sante Fe

 

Outside of Georgia O'Keefe home 

 

We drove further south to Carlsbad, New Mexico where we spent the next three nights.  The first day we drove to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park and spent the day hiking.  I again wanted to share a cave experience with Diane, so on our final day we took the King's Palace cave tour at the famous Carlsbad Caverns.  I chose this tour because it took us through four highly decorated chambers and into the deepest portion of the cavern, 830 feet beneath the desert above.  Also, I knew I could count on the rangers to conduct a black-out, turning off all artificial lights revealing the natural darkness of the cave.  Unless you have had the opportunity, it is difficult to comprehend the experience of not being able to even get a hint that your hand is in front of your face. I have never been able to replicate it except in another cave.

Carlsbad Cavern

 

The next day we drove to the El Paso airport, left our car in the long-term parking lot and met our tour group at the baggage claim.  On our way to Big Bend, we first stopped at Fort Davis where all-black infantry and cavalry regiments that were established after the Civil War were stationed.   A National Park Service ranger described the fort’s importance in understanding the presence of African Americans in the West and in the frontier military.  On the square in mile-high downtown Fort Davis, we checked into the Hotel Limpia where we had our welcome dinner and learned more about our guides and fellow travelers.  We had already discovered that some of the guides had very keen vision.  When we were on the grounds at the Fort, they easily spotted birds I would not have noticed.  They carried and set up tripods with eyepieces trained on wildlife for us to view.  We slept very well nestled in the Davis Mountains.

Sharp-eyed guide with tripod

 

Fort Davis sculptures of black soldier and his horse

 

Driving from Fort Davis, we found the scenery very interesting.  Texas was not just relying on big oil anymore.  The hillsides were peppered with big windmills, and I could see passing trains transporting blades elsewhere. 

The Park was a welcome sight.  The area has an ancient geological history involving the collision of tectonic plates which created a bump called the “Big Bend”.  It can be visualized by looking at a map of Texas.  On the west side, the border doesn’t go due north from the southern border with Mexico, but turns west, then drops south (forming the bump) before it heads back north again.  The National Park is located at the southern tip of the bend.

Outline of State of Texas showing the “Big Bend” on the left

 

Our lodging at the Chisos Mountains Lodge was located near the start of a trail we took the first day.  The Window Trail began by sloping downward.  The footing became tricky as we had to jump from rock to rock in a dry creek bed.  We decided it was all worth it since the view through the “window” at the end was magnificent.  We sat in the creek bed and ate our packed lunch.  It was slow going back uphill, and we were very glad we had our walking sticks and plenty of water in our backpacks.

Jeanne and Diane on the Window Trail

 

          View through the “window”

 

One night after dinner the guides took us to an area where there were several wooden telephone poles with holes near the top.  As the sun set and it got dark, little owls emerged from the holes and started flying around.  These elf owls are only about five inches in length and migrate to the area from Mexico.  Other nocturnal animals we looked for included the kit fox, bobcat, kangaroo rat, and bats.  During the early and late morning hours, we saw mule deer, coyotes, jackrabbits, and cottontails.  Our guides also described the varieties of cacti, desert flowers and other plants.  There was an amazing amount of diversity in this desert environment.

As well as creating the western boundary of Texas, the Rio Grande River forms the southern boundary of the national park.  We visited the river twice, once in a canyon, walking on a ledge high above the swiftly moving water.  The other time was along a shallow, slow-moving section of the river where the road went right down to the water.  We saw friendly Mexicans riding their horses back across the border after a visit to the park.  It was obvious they were not immigrating.

In 2021, Texas Governor Greg Abbott proposed a border wall along his state's boundary with Mexico, but it could run into a Texas-sized problem at Big Bend National Park.  I would hate to see a big barrier built through this or any other National Park such as the one partially completed at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument in Arizona.  Checkpoints operated by U.S. Customs and Border Protection are located on all north/south highways leading from the Big Bend area, and are staffed at all times.  That should suffice.

Horsemen heading to Mexico after crossing the shallow Rio Grande

 

Hike along the Rio Grande as it flowed between steep walls

 

 Most evenings we ate at the lodge restaurant, but on the last night we had a special treat.  We boarded the van for a trip to the Starlight Theatre in Terlingua where we not only had a big Texas dinner but Texas-style entertainment on a stage.  I was amused when I went outside to the toilet, which fortunately was of the flush variety, to read the sign saying “If it’s yellow, let it mellow.  If it’s brown, flush it down,” giving testament to water shortages in this part of Texas.

        Starlight Theatre

 

The next day we started our way back to El Paso, stopping for the night in Marfa, an art hub that attracts tourists to view the featured minimalist art.  Our farewell dinner really got out-of-hand with a lot of drinking and kissing going on, in which Diane decided to participate.  That is the only thing that made me glad this part of our trip was over. 

After picking up our car the next day, we began our travels toward home, stopping for the night in Fort Stockton.  We really needed to do laundry but were warned to inspect a washer before using it since the men working in the surrounding oil fields were using them to wash their oil-laden clothes.  On the recommendation of the motel desk clerk, we ate our best Mexican food of the trip at a little café on the edge of town.

We drove through Bluebonnet country with a stop in Fredericksburg for lunch before we arrived in Austin, where we spent two nights.  We had a busy day there making four stops: 1) the Zilker botanical gardens located on the south bank of the Colorado River; 2) the Texas state capitol, 3) the Blanton Art Museum, and 4) the LBJ Presidential Library located at the University of Texas.  Late March was a good time for viewing flowers at the botanical gardens.  There were many volunteers giving tours of the capitol and telling stories about Texas history.  We enjoyed the exhibits in the LBJ Library, particularly of his civil rights initiatives and the small exhibit about the life of Lady Bird.

Bluebonnets

 

Zilker botanical gardens

 

Texas state capitol building

 

It was a short drive to College Station, the home of Texas A&M University where we made two stops: 1) the Presidential library for the first Bush President and 2) the MSC (Memorial Student Center) Forsyth Galleries.  After his eldest son entered politics, we referred to George Herbert Walker Bush as Bush 1 for short.  We didn’t like the exhibits as much as the ones at the LBJ library.  They seemed to be more political and extolling his time in office, instead of being more descriptive.

George H. W. Bush Presidential Library and Museum

 

It was a long day of driving the next day to arrive in Little Rock, Arkansas.  Following our pattern, we toured: 1) the Arkansas State Capitol, 2) the Arkansas Arts Center, and 3) the Clinton Presidential Library.  The Clinton Library was having a special exhibit of the Madeleine Albright Collection, entitled “Read My Pins.”   Secretary Albright wore pins which communicated a message before, during, and after her years of public service.  For example, after she was told that the Russians had planted a listening device—a “bug”—in a conference room near her office in the State Department, she wore a pin the shape of a huge bug the next time she saw the Russians, and they got the message.

Interior of the Arkansas State Capitol

 

Me outside the Arkansas Arts Center

 

Clinton Presidential Library

 

Example of an Albright pin

 

Soon after returning home, I went to see a gynecologist.  I was experiencing some vaginal discomfort and bleeding.  She found a urethral caruncle (a small growth on the urethra).  I was worried that our love-making had caused the injury.  At this point in our relationship, the sex wasn’t all that important to me, but affection was.

Our early morning routine demonstrates one example of how we showed our affection for one another.  I started the coffee brewing in the master bathroom while Diane warmed up milk for the coffee in the kitchen microwave.  She prepared the cups of coffee and brought them to the bed where we leaned back and enjoyed our first cups.  This was a time when we talked about the previous and next day’s activities.  Before we got out of bed, I put my arms around Diane and held her while she learned over and we shared a slow, gentle kiss.  It was a wonderful way for us to maintain some physical closeness and start the day.  I loved Diane deeply, respected her intellect (and cooking), and enjoyed her company on our increasingly frequent travels together.