Road Scholar Trip to England, Wales & Scotland

 

          When 2011 began, I was approaching complete retirement.  As was my nature, I felt the need to have a plan on how I would manage our finances during that time.  My goal was to support Diane and I in the manner to which we had become accustomed.  This year I would turn 70 and a half.  That meant I had to start taking the Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs) from my individual and business IRAs.  I could simply use the defaults provided by Vanguard, but, considering my mathematical and financial background, I wanted to plan the best way to do it myself.  Since I was a member of the American Association of Individual Investors, I could use their website to investigate various strategies.  After deciding on one, I could set up automatic withdrawals from my IRAs that would meet the requirement.

I was delighted that my paper, “Guidelines for Accurate EC50/IC50 Estimation,” would be published in the journal Pharmaceutical Statistics.  Since it had been posted for sale on the journal’s website, I had been receiving emails from around the world asking me to send them copies.  This reaffirmed my belief that scientists and statisticians wanted a way to know whether their EC50 or IC50 estimated values were accurate.  I was asked to attend a conference in Korea to present the paper, but even if my expenses were paid (which they didn’t offer), I wasn’t really interested in going. 

Diane and I were happy with our plans for the coming year.  We would go on two Road Scholar trips, one international and one domestic.   At home, we would attend Tai Chi and Osher classes.  I was now the co-treasurer of Muleskinners (a Democratic luncheon club) which meant attending the Friday meetings and filing quarterly ethics reports.  Diane and I volunteered to serve as judges in the April municipal election.  We would see a lot of movies and plays and attend Odyssey Chamber Music concerts in the winter and the Missouri Symphony in the summer.

We were living a comfortable life except for one thing:  Diane’s drinking.  She denied she was drinking alone in the kitchen at night.  After I completed my task of clearing the dinner table, I would go to our bedroom and wait for her to join me.  Her task was to load the dishwasher and hand wash any large items.  The final straw occurred one night when I waited and waited for her to join me.  I finally returned to the kitchen and found her sitting on the floor.  She couldn’t get up and was obviously inebriated.  Even with my help, it took a long time before she was able to stand up and walk.

I decided it was time to remove wine from our house.  We would no longer have our (supposed) limit of one glass with dinner.  I disposed of every bit of alcohol in the house except cooking sherry.  Then I discovered that, with nothing else available, Diane was even drinking the sherry.  Now it also had to go.  Neither one of us would be drinking anything alcoholic at home.  It was impossible to obtain her agreement to not drink alcohol away from home, but it wasn’t difficult to limit the consumption.  I didn’t want to create a scene at restaurants or events when Diane ordered wine.  Later, I could wave my hand over her glass before the waiters refilled it.

Diane was also making too many mistakes on the invoices for my few clients.  I had to check each invoice very carefully before sending them out.  This was another good reason for ending Sebaugh’s Information Services.  I was also hurt that Diane would lie to me.  In our 20 years together, I had never felt that Diane lied to me about anything.  Why now and about drinking?  Why had she been drinking to excess?  She wouldn’t or couldn’t explain it, but I still wondered.

It was no surprise to us when Diane’s family members decided to leave Columbia and move to Pennsylvania.  Her sister, Sue, wanted to be near her grandchildren.  Her son, Joe, lived there and now had two children.  Sue’s husband, Joe, had been a Marine in Vietnam.  Using his veterans’ benefits, he purchased a split-level house near her son in which Sue and Joe could live in the lower-level apartment while their daughter’s family could live upstairs. 

February was the last month in their Columbia condo.  I hired Ron, a friend who was a buyer’s broker, to manage selling the property, while Diane took charge of cleaning up the place.  There were several other properties in the area with For Sale signs, but I kept my price higher.  I had paid cash for the property when I bought it.  I would require the buyer to sign a promissory note and security agreement.  I had a five-year schedule of monthly payments that the buyer would make to me at which time the unpaid balance would come due.  Once I approved the buyer, no other contingency for financing would be required.

In March, once again my sister Earlene came to Columbia for the True/False film festival.  It was a somewhat subdued visit since it was her first without her husband, Vince.  We asked Craig to join us and squire Earlene around so she would have a male escort.  He agreed to do so even though it meant he would need to sleep uncomfortably on a futon in Diane’s office since Earlene already had the guest bedroom.

My friend Ellen asked for some help.  Her mother had died the previous December, and Ellen was laid off from her job of 21 years in February, a double whammy.  Ellen is the woman who in the late 1970s had asked me to teach her and her friends about mutual funds, and we had remained friends.  She asked if I could help her in dealing with her inheritance.  I was glad to again share my financial expertise with her, and she was good with numbers.  We set up two card tables in my office.  Ellen had her computer on one, and I had a second computer on the other.  There was a lot of her mother’s paperwork and documents to weed through.  Her mother had a number of annuities that had to be carefully studied.  Then there was the task of carefully going through all her mother’s papers since Ellen had discovered U.S. savings bonds tucked away among them.  She had to transfer her mother’s accounts to her name, all-in-all a task that would keep Ellen busy for months.

I really enjoyed working with Ellen.  We both started Vanguard accounts in the early 1990s, after learning that most of its mutual funds were no-load with low management fees.  I began using software to manage my finances in the 1980s, initially with Andrew Tobias’s Managing-Your-Money and switching to Quicken in 2000.  All of my financial data, personal and business banking and investment accounts, could now be processed in one place, which made it easier to see the big picture.  Therefore, one of the first things I worked on with Ellen was helping her set up all her holdings in Quicken. 

A statistician like myself knows that all decision-making needs to begin with accurate and complete data.  Quicken software helped accomplish that task.  I felt that people often complicated their holdings by having separate accounts for each perceived purpose, like travel, a new car, household spending and so forth.  In Quicken, transactions could be identified using these same categories while using a single account.  Ellen listened to my recommendations, and although she did not always act on them immediately, I felt she gave them thorough consideration.  Most of them she ultimately followed.

I had the same experience when I started working with our mutual friend Mary on using Quicken.  She was now retired and receiving a pension from the state of Missouri.  She was a much different investor than Ellen or I.  She was very risk averse about holding any stock shares or mutual funds.  She only held funds in her bank’s checking and savings accounts and CDs at the financial institution that offered the best interest rate.  She mainly used Quicken to reconcile her checking account when she received a statement.  She held no debt, not even on her car, truck, or house.  She paid her credit card off each month.  I calculated the 2010 income taxes using H&R Block’s Tax Cut software for both Ellen and Mary, as well as myself and Diane.

The condo in the Country Club Estates sold quickly in April.  Ron found the perfect buyer for the terms I was offering.  The buyer had earlier declared medical bankruptcy and would not have been able to get a conventional mortgage.  We met at the house they were renting, all sitting around their dining room table, and Diane almost wrecked the deal.  As the buyer and I were agreeing on terms, Diane spoke up and said we shouldn’t make a deal with someone who had previously declared bankruptcy and was therefore a bad risk.  I felt his situation was one in which he sincerely was looking for a way to dig himself out of a hole.  Also, his wife’s mother owned a title insurance company.  I asked Diane to leave the room, and the buyer and I signed an agreement that I felt protected me.  I would not involve her in my business again.  This was another instance of wondering what was going on with Diane.  Her outburst had taken me by surprise.

We were looking forward to our first trip of the year.  I was not doing any more volunteer work with the School District, but my friend Bob and I were still in close communication.  He had about 400,000 frequent flyer miles with American Airlines (AA) that he had accumulated from business travel.  He and his family members had no intention of using the miles, and, before they expired, he told me how to use the miles on his AA account. 

We used his miles for the first time on a Road Scholar trip, “Quintessential Britain,” which started in London and ended in Edinburgh.  We had not traveled with the Road Scholar organization before.  It began under the name Elderhostel, a travel-learning program that usually lodged its participants in college dormitories.  After 35 years, it briefly updated its name to Exploritas, before ending up with the name Road Scholar which some people confused with the Rhodes Scholarship program.  The Great Britain tour looked excellent, and we would not be staying in college dormitories.

To increase my knowledge of early English history, I read the historical mystery novels by C. J. Sansom.  They are set in the reign of Henry VIII in the 16th century and feature the hunchbacked lawyer, Matthew Shardlake.  It gave me a good introduction to London history which Diane and I could build on during our four nights in London prior to the start of the tour. 

After our morning arrival at Heathrow, we took a train to Paddington Station and then a ride in one of the famous black taxis to our motel in Southwark.  At the nearby Globe Theatre, we had lunch reservations at The Swan and balcony tickets for the afternoon performance of Shakespeare’s play All's Well that Ends Well.  After the all-night flight and a good lunch, the straight-backed wooden seats almost guaranteed that I wouldn’t fall asleep during the performance.

Inside the Globe Theatre

 

Musicians in the balcony above the back of the stage

 

Another reason for our selection of lodging was the ease of walking to the Bankside Pier to board a boat for the seaward trip on the Thames to Greenwich.  Diane had read all of the novels written by Patrick O’Brian about the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic Wars, and Greenwich contained much history on the topic.  As we disembarked our boat, we could see that the Cutty Sark, a 19th-century sailing ship, was undergoing renovation, so we wouldn’t be able to board it.  The Royal Observatory was our first priority.   To get there, we walked up the hill through the Old Royal Observatory Garden.  Diane told me that we would see the scientific instruments the British invented for accurately sailing their ships to the desired destination. 

The purpose of the Royal Observatory was a very practical one: to reduce shipwrecks.  When out of sight of land, mariners had no accurate way of knowing their position.  They could find their latitude (north-south position) by observing the sun or stars, but not their longitude (east-west position).  Even if they had accurate maps, their position on the map was uncertain.  Exhibits at the Royal Observatory showed a series of chronometers, devices for keeping time on the seas.  To determine "longitude by chronometer," the ship’s navigator needed a chronometer set at the local time at the Prime Meridian, or zero degrees longitude, which Diane stood on near the Observatory.  Nowadays with our satellites and GPS devices, we don’t think about this interesting history.

Diane standing on the Prime Meridian

 

Diane and I walked back down the hill to have a cup of hot soup and bread at a local restaurant.  Then we made a visit to the National Maritime Museum whose purpose is to tell the story of Great Britain’s maritime history.  The collections included not only ships, navigational instruments, maps and globes, but also paintings.  There was so much to see in Greenwich.  The Painted Hall at the Old Royal Naval College took my breath away.  We boarded the boat for the trip back to London and listened as they announced the sights along the way.  To do some sight-seeing, we stayed on the boat past our destination and then returned while comfortably sitting on the boat.

Display of whaling ships at the National Maritime Museum  

 

Painted room at the Old Royal Naval College

 

Our lodging for the next two nights was at the Marriott Grosvenor House where we had stayed during our previous London visit.  Diane told our motel to have a taxi ready to pick us up at 6:30 the next morning.  However, we walked out and found that it was a “gypsy” taxi, not a black taxi.  The driver quoted an exorbitant price for the trip.  Fortunately, we knew what it should cost and told him we wouldn’t go with him at his price.  Finding he had knowledgeable passengers, he immediately back-pedaled and cut the price to get us into his vehicle. 

After dropping off our luggage, we joined a King Arthur's Realm tour to Stonehenge, Avebury, and Glastonbury.  Before taking this trip, I had read books about King Arthur and Mary Queen of Scots, so it was fun to see the locations mentioned in the books.  Stonehenge is a familiar sight, but most people don’t know about the Avebury complex, one of the principal ceremonial sites of Neolithic Britain.  It is one of the largest, and undoubtedly the most complex, of Britain's surviving Neolithic henge monuments (prehistoric circular or oval earthen enclosure).  What made it different from Stonehenge is that I could walk right up and touch the large stones.  Glastonbury is where King Arthur’s sword was reputedly created.  We were told that the Glastonbury Abbey was the burial place of King Arthur and Queen Guinevere.

Me and Diane at Stonehenge on a slow day

 

Avebury

 

Glastonbury Abbey

 

The next morning, we walked to Paddington Station and took the train to Oxford.  We had arranged to meet my sister Earlene at the nearby bus station where we all boarded a bus for Blenheim.  It is the seat of the Dukes of Marlborough and the birthplace of Winston Churchill and we planned to tour the Palace and Gardens.  The tour was not what I expected.  Some of the rooms were presented in a theatrical fashion and the exhibits were so extensive and poorly presented that I rapidly became bored.  However, the grounds and gardens were well maintained and beautiful.  I much prefer America’s National Churchill Museum in Fulton, Missouri.

Me and Earlene in front of the Blenheim Castle maze garden

 

We took the bus back to Oxford to join the family Earlene was visiting.  I found the husband interesting as he did statistical analysis using medical and hospital data.  He had a lot of this data to work with because of England’s nationalized medical system.  We had a lovely dinner in the Jericho area before Diane and I took the train back to London.

Early the next morning we took a taxi to our Road Scholar hotel to drop off our luggage.  The actual tour didn’t start until late afternoon, so we took a subway into old London.  We had read about the Old Bailey, the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales, and wanted to know more about it.  That was a very informative visit.  We were required to leave our backpacks at security before we could go upstairs.  Once there we could open a door and sit on benches which were in a balcony overlooking a trial taking place.  Just like in the movies, the wigged lawyers were questioning young men in front of a wigged judge.  Most of the evidence presented was video from the surveillance cameras that are ubiquitous in London, on the streets, in buses, subways, in fact, just everywhere.  After watching this trial, I started counting cameras as I walked along the London streets, WOW! 

We next went to the Museum of London since we had found in Barcelona and Rome that the city museums are a good place to learn its history.  We avoided the minutia and concentrated on the big picture story of London.  After lunch at the museum, we took the subway back to the Road Scholar hotel. 

That evening we met with our group for a welcome drink and dinner followed by a meeting during which each attendee introduced themselves and the Course Director introduced our program.  When Diane and I introduced ourselves, we made clear that we were partners.  Later, we were approached by several other attendees who told us about one of their children, relatives or friends who were gay.  The majority of our acquaintances in Columbia were heterosexual, and we didn’t have any problem fitting in with the group.

          We spent the next morning at the British Museum with a guided tour of some highlights.  Since we had been to Egypt, we were particularly interested in the Rosetta Stone, so-called because it was found in Rosetta, Egypt.  It is essentially a stone inscribed with the same text in the three scripts being used in Egypt at the time: Demotic, hieroglyphic and Greek.  That made it key to the understanding and deciphering of ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs.  Next, we were shown the Elgin or Parthenon Marbles.  These are a collection of beautiful classical Greek marble sculptures that were a part of the Temple of Parthenon on the Acropolis of Athens; Greece still claims them and wants them back.  We were shown many other lovely artifacts, but these two stand out in my mind.

          The Rosetta Stone (with reflections in the display glass)

 

          A portion of the Elgin or Parthenon Marbles

 

          In the afternoon we first visited St John’s Priory Church, with its twelfth century Crypt.  It started as a monastery before becoming a church.  The Priory Gallery features an exhibition on life in the medieval priory (monastery) and the surrounding area through the ages. The Church Cloister Garden has a range of herbs which provide an idea of the medicinal gardens that would have been cultivated by the Knights Hospitaller during Medieval times.  We stopped by the Guildhall on our way to St. Paul's Cathedral, a Church of England cathedral dedicated to Paul the Apostle. It is visible everywhere in London as it sits at the top of Ludgate Hill, the highest point in the city.  We drove by Buckingham Palace on our way back to the hotel.

          Everybody is headed to St. Paul’s Cathedral


           Buckingham Palace

 

          The City of Bath was the destination of our tour bus the next day, but Diane and I were surprised that we stopped at Stonehenge on the way.  When we signed up for this tour, that stop wasn’t included.  On this visit, it was much more crowded, but we were given audiotapes to listen to as we walked along the boardwalk.  Then we continued to Bath to visit the famous Roman baths and pump room.  We were discovering that our large tour group (about 30) included many who had been teachers.  They were well read and intelligent, as was our tour leader.

          Stonehenge (sign indicates the audiotape number)

 

          A large Roman Bath

 

The next day we were back in London, joining all the tourists to walk through the Tower of London where we saw the Crown Jewels, the Towers which held prisoners and the instruments used for torture.  Our group went on a boat tour of London on the Thames and we all stood in the long lines to take a ride inside the little cabins on the London eye.  Since this was our last night in London, our bus took us on a tour of London by night and a pub visit.

View of the London Eye from our boat tour

 

View of London Eye cabin

 

          The next morning, we rode on the bus heading for the Cotswolds region, stopping at Oxford.  At Oxford, Road Scholar had arranged for a local tour guide to take us on a walking tour of the city.  While visiting the Oxford college of Christ Church, we toured the gallery to view the Old Master paintings and drawings, as well as the dining room that was used in the Harry Potter movies.  We walked to the Church Meadow where JRR Tolkien and his friend CS Lewis used to go for walks.

The Radcliffe Camera (part of Bodleian Library complex in Oxford)

 

We then continued to our lodging for the night and dinner in the attached restaurant.  I loved the British puddings served for dessert.  It was difficult to stay awake after dinner for the scheduled lecture on the history of the Cotswolds.  I just remember hearing about the honey-hued color of the houses that came from the type of limestone quarried in the region.

          We began the next day by visiting the village of Broadway and then going to the 55-foot-high Broadway Tower, a folly located on the second highest hill in the Cotswolds.  A folly is a building constructed primarily for decoration, but suggestive of some other purpose.  This one had three round corner turrets built to resemble a mock castle.  Two of them had spiral staircases.  We walked up one of them to view exhibits in the middle portion and then walked down the other staircase.  I was reminded of our experience climbing the narrow stairs to the top of The Belfry in Bruges with people both going up and down the same stairs.  I appreciated the two separate staircases.

          The Broadway Tower

 

We had lunch in the town of Stow-on-the-Wold prepared by local women.  The English seemed to eat a lot of small sandwich halves on white bread with crusts removed and sparse fillings.  We walked around the Stow market square then drove to another market town, Chipping Campden, notable for its terraced High Street. 

After breakfast the next day, we had a lecture on "Stratford and Shakespeare" to prepare us for our afternoon to Stratford-upon Avon.  Our local guide showed us around the area. I thought the locks on the river Avon were interesting because of their small size and their manual operation by the boaters themselves.  We saw the white swans on the river and viewed the Royal Shakespeare Theatre and adjacent Swan Theatre on the banks of the river, but didn’t tour them.

Swans

 

Lock with small boat going through

 

We had a bit of a hike in the afternoon to see the Hidcote Gardens.  There are many public footpaths in Britain and we started out on one, learning how to walk through the gates. Then although it seemed to be a path, we ended up walking through a pasture in which we really had to look out for the animal droppings.  We made it to the garden which is one of the best-known and most influential Arts and Crafts gardens in Britain.  Arts and Crafts gardens incorporate the use of natural, often local materials and traditional craftsmanship, respecting regional traditions.  Happily, we didn’t have to walk back through the pasture, but were picked up by our bus.

Hidcote Gardens

 

We left in the morning for our next stay in Chester. Along the way we stopped at Ironbridge, named after its bridge.  Built between 1777-1779, it was the first arch bridge in the world to be made out of cast iron, a material which was previously far too expensive to use for large structures. However, a new blast furnace nearby lowered the cost and so encouraged local engineers and architects to solve a long-standing problem of a crossing over the Severn River.

Ironbridge 

 

We then drove to the nearby Blists Hill living museum.  Built on a former industrial complex, it attempts to recreate the sights, sounds and smells of a Victorian town in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  It reminded me of Silver Dollar City near Branson, MO.  After lunch we continued to Chester for a lecture entitled "Introduction to Snowdonia," and learned it is both a mountainous region in northwestern Wales and the name of a national park. 

For our morning outing, the bus took us to the Snowdonia National Park where we had an opportunity to explore the large Conwy Castle on the north coast of Wales.  It was built on a rock promontory to prevent undermining and guard the entrance to the River Conwy from the Irish Sea.  Before lunch we had a lecture entitled "National Parks."  The other nearby Welsh castle we visited was the Dolbadarn Castle.  It consists of a courtyard, surrounded by a number of towers and a round keep.  Much of the construction was done with slate, which explains our next visit to the National Slate Museum.  There we saw presentations of harvesting and cutting slate.

Conwy Castle

 

Slate Museum

 

The group left Wales and proceeded to Chester where we spent the night.  The next morning, we went on a walking tour around Chester.  It was founded as a Roman fortress in the 1st century A.D.  Some of the walls still exist, and I was able to walk up some stairs and along a section.  Those Romans had great engineers who built to last.  In the old city, we saw another unique feature: Chester’s Rows.  The Rows create a double-deck street, with steps leading up from ground level to long covered balconies that cut through an eye-catching network of buildings shaped by every architectural style of the past 800 years.  The Chester Cathedral was magnificent.  It was built on the site of earlier places of worship by the Romans.  The oldest parts of the existing cathedral were built by the Benedictine monks around 1093.  Our try-to-stay-awake lecture after lunch was entitled "Chester and Cheshire."  To explain the lecture title, Chester is a walled cathedral city in Cheshire, England.

Chester’s Walls

 

Chester Cathedral

 

The Bronte sisters called out to us the next morning, but to get in the mood for a visit, we first needed to walk through the heather on the moors around the town of Haworth where they grew up.  Then we toured their former home in the Brontë Parsonage Museum.  We walked through all the rooms of the home, and pictured the sisters writing their novels sitting in the dining room.  We paid a visit to Emily’s grave in the St Michael and All Angels' Church graveyard.  Then we headed on toward York and heard a lecture entitled "Abbeys & Monasteries," which prepared us for our visit to an Abbey the next day.

Heather on the moor

 

Rievaulx Abbey was founded in 1132 and eventually became one of the greatest and wealthiest in England.  This made it a target for Henry VIII who dissolved it in 1538. Its ruins are now a tourist attraction. After lunch we visited Castle Howard, which is not a real castle, but one of the grandest private residences in Britain and familiar to television and movie audiences as the fictional "Brideshead.”  We toured the inside of the castle and the gardens outside.

Castle Howard gardens

 

The walled city of York, where we toured the next day, was interesting because it was founded by the Romans, was briefly conquered by the Vikings, and then conquered by the Kingdom of England.  The York Minster is a Gothic cathedral and is one of the largest of its kind in Northern Europe.  It has one of the most sizable collections of medieval stained glass in the world and contains a famous rose window, reminiscent of the ones in Notre Dame.  We arrived at Evensong early enough to view the interior and then enjoy the lovely sounds of the choirs and organ during the service.

Rose window in York Cathedral

 

On our way to Edinburgh, our group received a grand tour of Chesters Fort on Hadrian's Wall.  Built to guard the northern frontier of the Roman Empire in AD122, it stretched almost 80 miles from the North Sea to the Irish Sea.  It was an occupied military zone of castles, barracks, ramparts, forts and settlements meant to protect England from the Scottish tribes.  Then we crossed the border into Scotland, and checked into our hotel.

Me at Hadrian’s Wall

 

After lunch we toured Carlton Hill across the street from our hotel.  It was a great way to introduce the group to the city.  Not only did we have panoramic views of Edinburgh, but also the Firth of Forth, the large estuary of the River Forth that flows into the North Sea.  We visited several monuments on the hill.  There were twelve tall columns, reminiscent of the Parthenon in Athens, which were never completed but intended to commemorate the Scottish servicemen who died in the Napoleonic Wars.  The Nelson Monument was shaped like an up-turned telescope and built to commemorate Admiral Lord Nelson’s death at the Battle of Trafalgar.  Diane and I thought about what we had learned in Greenwich concerning the importance of chronographs when we were told that a time ball which dropped at one o’clock was added to the top of the monument to enable ships moored in the Firth of Forth to set their timepieces accurately.  Dropping at 1:00 p.m. instead of noon began in Greenwich in 1833, because its astronomers were too busy with observations at noon.  Another building on the hills was shaped like a Greek temple and had served as the City Observatory.  I found it an interesting collection of structures.  We then returned to our hotel for our final lecture entitled "Border Wars."

The Nelson Monument

 

We spent the next day exploring more of the city itself.  Our walking tour first took us by historic Holyroodhouse Palace, the Queen's official residence in the Scottish capital, and then up the street by the very modern Scottish Parliament building, before proceeding to the business district.  Diane and I briefly went on the grounds of the Edinburgh Castle but did not tour it.  We had lunch at Deacon Brodie’s Tavern, sitting at the front window on the second floor watching the tourists walking along Canongate, or what is known as the Royal Mile between the Holyroodhouse Palace and Edinburgh Castle.  We next visited the National Museum of Scotland.  One notable item on display was Dolly the sheep (stuffed, of course) which in July 1996 was the first mammal cloned from an adult stem cell.

Scottish Parliament Building

 

Dolly

 

In the morning our bus traveled over the Firth of Forth to take us on our next expedition.  The old Forth Bridge was completed in 1890, is considered a symbol of Scotland (having been voted Scotland's greatest man-made wonder in 2016), and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Because of heavy traffic on this bridge and need for repairs, construction was starting on a new bridge.  We headed to the county of Perthshire and the Huntingtower Castle with its two towers and long history of intrigue involving kidnapping and murder.  Our group briefly visited “The Mains of Huntingtower” which is a monument composed of the remains of a neolithic henge, five prehistoric roundhouses, and groups of pits which may represent a Roman road.

View of the Firth of Forth and the old bridge

 

Huntingtower Castle

 

It was a short drive to the Scone Palace where our group was served lunch.  On my walk around its gardens and grounds, I viewed the large Douglas Fir trees, the Murray Star Maze and the loud, colorful peacocks.  After returning to our hotel, we had dinner and then a pub crawl.

Murray Star Maze at the Scone Palace

 

          On our last full day of this tour, we had an excursion to the Trossachs, first going to the small village of Balmahal on the edge of Loch Lomond.  Loch Lomond was made famous by the song “The Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond.”  On the shore of the Loch, our guide told us about its history, and then we hiked up the hill behind us to have views of the surrounding area.  We were glad to be in good enough condition to do this.  After lunch, we drove to Loch Katrine for a chilly, but relaxing boat ride on the steamship Sir Walter Scott.  Loch Katrine was the inspiration for the famous 19th century poem, The Lady of the Lake, by Sir Walter Scott.  He was a Scottish novelist, poet, historian, and biographer who is often considered both the inventor and the greatest practitioner of the historical novel.

          Me aboard the Sir Walter Scott

 

The farewell dinner that night was in the hotel.  It featured entertainment about Scotland and was very touristy with plenty of bagpipes.  We did enjoy the Scottish dancing.  Of course, all the tourists were encouraged to have some haggis.  It is the national dish of Scotland, a type of pudding composed of the liver, heart, and lungs of a sheep (or other animal), minced and mixed with beef or mutton, suet and oatmeal, and seasoned with onion, cayenne pepper and other spices. The mixture is packed into a sheep's stomach and boiled.  NO THANK YOU!

          We said goodbye to our fellow travelers.  They had been a good group for us to travel with:  older, well-read and educated.  This was an aspect of travel with Road Scholar that we appreciated.  Diane and I were sure that we would be traveling with Road Scholar again. 

We had planned a few days on our own in Edinburg before returning home.  We started by walking to Holyroodhouse and doing an audio tour of the Palace, Abby, gardens and Queens gallery.  I had read about the Palace being the home of Mary, Queen of Scots.  Even though we visited the state apartments, the throne room and the royal treasures, my favorite part was going up the narrow, steep and winding staircase to the oldest section of the palace in the north-west tower.  That was where Mary, Queen of Scots lived between 1561-1567.  In her private apartments, she had witnessed the brutal killing of her secretary.  I thought back to the stories I had read, and by standing in that space, I could imagine how it all happened.

Holyroodhouse

 

          By now, we had discovered a favorite lunch place in the city and walked back to town to have a fresh seafood lunch at Maison Bleue.  Our next lodging was at the Kenneth MacKenzie Suite owned by the University of Edinburgh.  Win Horner, one of the women in Diane’s salon group, had done her dissertation research on Scottish rhetoric at the University and told us about the lodging.  Not only was it less expensive than a hotel, but it included a full menu for breakfast.  After lunch we went back to our old hotel and transferred our luggage to the new lodgings, although it was a challenge to figure out how to store our large bags in the very small room.

          After our great breakfast the next morning, we walked to the meeting place for our full-day tour “St Andrews & the Fishing Villages of Fife.”  Unfortunately, our driver, who was also our guide, spoke with such a strong Scottish dialect that most of what she said was lost on us.  We drove back over the Forth Bridge and headed toward St. Andrews with a first stop at the fishing villages of Anstruther.  We walked along the seafront to the harbor where it was low tide, leaving the boats sitting on the sand or rocks.  We were at about 56 degrees north where there were the more extreme tides typical of northern latitudes.  This is in contrast with Columbia, Missouri which is only 38 degrees north.

          Diane at the fishing village

 

Our van proceeded to St. Andrews where we first stopped at the famous golf course.  Then we had too much time allotted to us to walk around the town and amuse ourselves.  Diane and I walked to the St. Andrews castle, the St. Andrews Cathedral, ate lunch and visited some shops.  We were glad when the tour ended.

St. Andrews

 

The next day, we went on another tour entitled “Wizards and Warriors.”  The tour’s name was motivated by the Harry Potter books since one of the castles we would see often served as a location in the films.  However, our first stop was at the Bamburgh Castle which was unlike other castles we had visited.  It was not on high ground, but rather stretched along a beach facing the harbor and the North Sea.  After lunch, we proceeded to Alnwick Castle where we saw a class being held for young children on how to mount their brooms for a game of quidditch.  Looking at the castle, we enjoyed seeing the many recognizable views from the Harry Potter movies.

Young Wizards learning to ride their brooms

 

On our way back to Edinburgh we stopped at the Wallace Statue.  He was the leader of the Scottish resistance forces during the first years of the long and finally successful struggle to free Scotland from English rule at the end of the 13th century.  Our final stop before returning to Edinburgh was at Scott's View overlooking the valley of the Tweed River, which is reputed to be one of the favorite views of Sir Walter Scott.

We stopped at the Mussel Inn restaurant to have dinner before returning to our lodging.  We were served a big pot of hot mussels cooked in white wine and lots of bread to sop up the liquid.  That and a bottle of white wine and we were two happy women who thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Edinburgh, finding it a very manageable city in which to navigate.  We imagined visiting this city again someday.