Costa Rica

 

After returning from Ireland on October 1, 2015, we both needed to address medical issues causing us pain.  Diane started going to physical therapy appointments, and I got an iliopsoas tendon injection in my left thigh.  I celebrated my 75th birthday by going to the Missouri Theatre to hear the inaugural lecture sponsored by the University of Missouri Kinder Institute on Constitutional Democracy.  It was delivered by two-time Pulitzer Prize and National Book Award-winner David McCullough and entitled "The History You Don't Know: Lessons from the American Founders."  A couple of weeks later, Larry and Carl came over for our second wedding anniversary dinner.  Later that month, Diane and I drove to Jefferson City for a reception to celebrate the wedding of Sandy, Diane’s previous partner, and her new wife Mary. 

At my last vision test, my doctor told me he could see corneal erosion and referred me to Dr. Moyes in Kansas City.  The first Monday in November we drove to Kansas City for my appointment.  He told me if it got any worse that I might want to have the eyes “sanded down” so the cells would regrow.  He said it was a very painful procedure, and I hoped I could avoid it.  He gave me instructions on how to massage and treat the eyes.  

The next day there was only one issue on our November ballot, a proposition for the sales tax to support our city Parks and Recreation Department.  It easily passed.  Diane completed the physical therapy she started in August.  The Saturday after Thanksgiving, we attended a marriage ceremony for two of our lesbian friends, Marta and Vic, at the Riechmann Pavilion in Stephens Lake Park that was attended by a large number of their friends and family.  The next day Larry and Carl drove us to Kansas City to see the first major exhibition dedicated to the Missouri artist Thomas Hart Benton in more than 25 years. It showed the connection between his art and his work in Hollywood by pairing the art with historic movie clips.  We were glad we made the trip and celebrated with a pasta lunch at Lidia’s.  Then Diane and I packed for our winter get-away to warmer climes.

For the second time in 2015, we were taking a Road Scholar trip: The Best of Costa Rica: Exploring Natural Wonders.  We chose this trip because it included stays on both coasts as well as the center of the country.  We flew from St. Louis through Dallas/Ft. Worth to San Jose, Costa Rica.  The program began with the usual orientation the next morning, followed by a visit to the Doka Coffee Estate.  The Vargas family has owned the business since 1940.  They were ambitious and finally entered the international market with their own brand, TRES GENERACIONES.  We were shown all the steps in the production of their coffee beans, and, of course, purchased some to take home.

Tour showing highly mechanized coffee production equipment

 

In the afternoon, we went to the INBio Parque (National Institute for Biodiversity) where we had a lecture about the biodiversity of Costa Rica and were given a general overview of Costa Rica's major ecosystems.  The facility was home to re-creations of Costa Rica's various types of forests, wetlands and farmlands. I could feel the difference in heat and humidity in each of them.  Interspersed throughout the park were various collections of species, like insects, frogs and toads, tarantulas, snakes, iguanas, turtles, caimans, fish, butterflies and more.  These were mingled with free-roaming animals and migratory birds.  It was a fun introduction to the rest of our trip.

Zebra tarantula

 

Iguana

 

The next morning started with a long drive toward the Caribbean Coast.  Our guide had a driver and a large van that almost had enough comfortable seating for all of us.  The plan was that we would rotate seats from front to back and window to aisle.  At the end of the day, we were told to take our belonging with us since no seats were reserved.  We saw a lot of city life while we were leaving San Jose behind, and then the scene transformed into the rainforest and cloud forest of the Braulio Carrillo National Park.  It changed again as we came down the mountains to sea level.  At a boat dock we boarded a flat-bottomed river boat that took us to the village of Tortuguero on the Caribbean coast (1.5-hour boat ride).

Cloud forest

 

Boarding the flat-bottomed river boat

 

After checking in to Pachira Lodge, we went on an excursion to the local village and continued to the Sea Turtle Conservancy (STC) Tortuguero Visitor Center.  This educational center is located in the heart of Tortuguero National Park, one of the most important sea turtle nesting sites in the world for green turtles.  We saw a slide show presentation and a local guide told us more about the green turtle.  He took us to the beach where the turtles lay their eggs during their usual nesting period of July to October.  They were gone by our December visit.

On the way to the village, we saw this fiery-billed aracari toucan

 

Village scene

 

Sea Turtle Conservancy (STC) Tortuguero Visitor Center

 

Beach where the turtles lay their eggs

 

Early the next two mornings and one late afternoon, we boarded river boats for a canal safari in Tortuguero National Park.  Based on the photos Diane took, I identified over a dozen species of birds, as well as some wildlife.  I was familiar with some of the bird species like the great and little blue heron, the great and snowy egret, the anhinga and jacana (the bird with the webbed feet that ‘walks on water’).  Others were the gray-necked wood rail; the South-American bittern; the little, green and Amazon kingfisher; and the bare-throated and yellow-crowned night heron.  Most of the very colorful birds were up too high in the canopy for us to see, but we did spot another fiery-billed aracari toucan.  We saw iguanas and an unusual green lizard.  We saw a snake, several tortoises and caiman.  The river otter was not shy nor were the two species of monkeys, the white-faced capuchin and the howler.

Boa constrictor

 

White-faced capuchin monkey

 

Anhinga

 

Basilisk lizard

 

Otter

 

Green Kingfisher

 

Northern Jacana over its eggs

 

Great Curassow

 

The howlers loved to wake us up early each morning by jumping on the roof of our cabana and, as might be expected, howling.  We were able to spend a little time in the lodge swimming pool and strolling around the village before it was time to leave the Caribbean. 

We boarded the river boat for the 1.5-hour ride to our van.  It was a 2.5-hour drive to the Selva Verde Lodge located in Sarapiqui in the Caribbean lowlands.  Soon after we arrived, we went on a guided hike along some secondary forest trails including a scary walk across a swinging bridge over a rapidly flowing river.  Back at the lodge we heard a lecture on The Mesoamerican Biological Corridor.  Well over 400 species of birds have been recorded in the lowlands of Middle America which consists of three main regions: the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America.

Me on river bridge



The lodge put out bananas to attract birds (and other critters).  The back of the 2nd floor had a viewing area overlooking the bait and birds.  The birds were different species than the ones we saw on the river.  Diane and I loved to sit and watch them.  I spotted a black-cheeked woodpecker; the clay-colored thrush (the national bird); a Baltimore oriole; beautiful blue-gray, common bush and hepatic tanagers; a red-headed barbet; blue-footed and chestnut-mandibled toucans; the brown Montezuma Oropendola; a green honeycreeper; and the great kiskadee.  We also saw a green and black poison-dart frog, a bushy-tailed squirrel and a white-nosed coati.

Thrush, green honeycreeper and black-cheeked woodpecker

 

This Toucan wanted the whole banana

 

Red summer and blue-gray tanagers

 

Palm tanager and great kiskadee

 

Montezuma Oropendola

 

White-nosed coati

 

Poison dart frogs

 

After lunch on the 2nd day, we visited a small cacao plantation, Costa Rica Best Chocolate.  They first showed us how the beans grow on trees and then harvested one to demonstrate how chocolate was made from that very bean.  We learned about the entire process of making chocolate, from the alien-looking seed pods to delicious, creamy chocolate. I was very glad that Diane gave me her share.

Cocoa pod on tree

 

Beans from a ripe pod

 

Cocoa beans after cooking and drying

 

Cocoa bean grinder

 

Finally, the chocolate

 

After our last bird watching, we left the lodge for the drive to the Arenal Manoa Hotel.  We were given some free time in the town of La Fortuna and then headed to the Arenal National Park which is named for its active volcano.  We walked a while along the Las Colada trail for views of the volcano and Arenal Lake.  The top part of the volcano was clouded over.  After checking into the hotel, we attended a lecture on the history of La Fortuna Town and the Arenal volcano.  Diane and I spent some time in the afternoon relaxing in the hotel’s gorgeous swimming pool.

Clouds over volcano

 

The next day started with a hike on a trail through the forest and up a mountain to the Arenal Hanging Bridges.  Oh, what fun to be suspended way up, looking way down!  It felt good to go back to the hotel and calm down.  In the afternoon, we drove to Vida Campesina, a family farm that maintains over 100 different species of plants and different crops with strict organic techniques, partially stabled livestock, methane gas production and tilapia. We saw how they made cane sugar and learned how to make tortillas and cook them on a traditional wood stove.  The family hosted our group for dinner at the farm followed by a dance presentation by local school children.

Me on bridge

 

Looking up at where we had been

 

Squeezing the juice from the sugar cane

 

Early the next morning as we were leaving the park, the volcano was clearly visible for the first time in three days.  Now we were headed for the Pacific Coast.  However, when we got to the van, I complained to our tour guide that some guests had been leaving their belongings on their seats at night and not rotating each day.  The guilty women knew who they were, and then they complained about me.  They said that it was my fault for not reminding them to move.  Now, Diane and I could occasionally have more comfortable seats with better views.  It was an almost five-hour trip to Punta Leona on the Pacific Coast.

 Volcano

 

We stopped for the Jungle Crocodile Safari Tour on the Tarcoles River.  It was relaxing to take the boat trip.  There were many crocodiles from very large to babies.  We saw so many water birds before, that I won’t recount them all again, except for two new types of herons, the tiger and boat-billed.  There were also some cute crabs along the river banks.

Crocodiles

 

Tiger heron

 

Boat-billed heron

 

Crabs

 

The Hotel Punta Leona was located on large grounds with white sand beaches on one side and tropical rainforest on the other.  A guide showed us around the property, and then we had a lecture entitled The Central Pacific Region: Conservation and Development.

We left early the next morning for an expedition to the Carara National Park.  A naturalist walked with us on the Universal Access Trail (meaning signs in braille and three languages) and pointed out the interesting flora and fauna.  We saw some beautiful pairs of the endangered Scarlet Macaws of which the park had a sizable population. Our group had the afternoon free.  The beach and ocean were beautiful, but Diane and I are not sand and sun people.  Instead, we walked to another of the hotel’s amenities, the Butterfly Garden & Insect Observatory.  A glassed-in, climate-controlled facility wasn’t necessary here, just some wire mesh curtains to keep the occupants inside.  We appreciated the variety and beauty of the Costa Rican butterflies.

Pacific Ocean

 

Pair of Scarlet Macaws

 

Butterflies

 

The next morning, we traveled along the Pacific Coast for 1.5 hours to the Hacienda Baru National Wildlife Refuge.  A local naturalist took us on a walk along a short loop trail and told us about Baru's Reforestation Project.  On the five-hour trip to our night’s lodging, we stopped at the Restaurant La Georgina and enjoyed all the colorful hummingbirds at their feeders.  We checked into our cabin at the Savegre Hotel before walking around the cloud forest grounds.  We met at the lodge to hear a lecture on The History of the San Gerardo Valley.

Hummingbirds

 

One reason for staying at this location was the possible sighting of the Quetzal bird.  That motivated us to rise early the next morning for some birding, but no luck. Seeing a black vulture with its young in the nest was the best we could do.  We had to be satisfied with a talk about the Resplendent Quetzal, a colorful bird.  We then freshened-up and checked out. It was a short drive to San Jose (about 2 to 2.5 hours).  That night we had our farewell dinner and packed for the trip home the next day.  From San Jose to Columbia through Dallas/Ft. Worth only took eight hours.  We had pre-positioned our car at the Columbia airport for the drive home on December 19th.  This hadn’t been our most favorite Road Scholar trip, but we were glad we were able to see so much of Costa Rica.

The Quetzal bird that we missed seeing

 

Black vulture

 

The busy holiday season was upon us.  On the 21st we attended a solstice party at Julie and Lydia’s.  We had Friday’s Christmas dinner at our house with Julie and Lydia, MF and Craig.  On Sunday, Mary and Christine came over for lasagna.  On Monday, the 28th, we had coffee in the morning with the Bluedorns. We were glad to see and talk with their son John about his job with Christine Lagarde, the Managing Director of the International Monetary Fund (the first woman to hold that position).  Ellen and MF stopped by that afternoon.  MF was joining Ellen this year on her trip to India, and they were leaving in three days.  Tuesday evening Larry and Carl came over for stroganoff and noodles to celebrate Larry’s birthday.  Diane and I spent New Year’s Eve by ourselves, going to bed at our usual time, but waking up to the neighbor’s midnight fireworks.  We were ready for the New Year of 2016.