Peruvian Amazon, Clydesdales and Dragons

 

Returning from Cuba in late January 2012, we had a few months at home before our next travels.  The pharmaceutical company in Munich received my invoice and asked for my bank’s SWIFT number so they could use it to send their payment.  However, my bank didn’t do international transfers.  I told the company they would need to send a check (in dollars).  They let me know that was very inconvenient for them.  I knew they wouldn’t do any more business with me, and that was fine with me.  Every once and a while I still got a phone call from ex-clients asking if I could help with a project.  I told all these callers that I was retired.  

In February, I served as an election judge for the Presidential primary, the first of four elections that year.  In Missouri, voters do not register by party.  This means that in a primary election they are required to ask for the party or non-partisan ballot in which to cast their vote.  For this Presidential primary there were four parties: Democratic, Republican, Libertarian, and Constitution.  As usual, I was exhausted after the long workday.  Diane decided that she would only work as an election judge during the general election in November.  In March, after we had received all of our tax documents, I used the H&R Block tax program for Diane and me, Mary F, Ellen and her partner Gale.  For many years, these friends would continue to work with me to calculate their taxes. 

The True/False documentary film festival was moved forward a week from the last weekend in February to the first weekend in March.  The previous years had been quite cold in late February, and the ice storm one year made walking from movie to movie a dangerous endeavor.  As usual, Earlene came for True/False, flying into Columbia and immediately going to an appointment with Robert for a haircut and color.  The next day, we drove to Fulton, MO to tour the Churchill Museum.  We wanted Earlene to see it in contrast with our tour of Blenheim where he was born.  That evening we attended a reception followed by a filmmaker’s forum.  It was part of a new pre-festival conference called BOATS (Based on a True Story).  It was held primarily at MU's Reynolds Journalism Institute with panels pairing filmmakers, leading critics and journalists to discuss how and why they do what they do.  There were panels all the next day and the morning of the following day after which the festival documentaries started. 

During the winter, I started to have nose bleeds which were difficult to stop.  After several of these, I made an appointment with an Ear, Nose and Throat doctor.  He recommended that I have the area that was the source of the nose bleeds cauterized.  After the festival, I had it done and there were no further repeats of the nose bleeds.  In early April, I worked as an election judge for a local special election.

In May, we flew to Lima, Peru for the second time to join an Olivia tour to the Upper Amazon: Exploring Peru's Pacaya-Samiria Reserve.  In preparation for this trip, I read River of Doubt about Theodore Roosevelt's expedition into the Brazilian jungle in 1913.  After breakfast our group was taken on a tour of Lima, first stopping at the Larco Herrera Museum.  Diane and I had been here before, but there were still plenty of historical artifacts to see.  From there we went to Casa Aliaga, the oldest colonial mansion in Lima, maybe even in all of South America. The house has been owned and lived in by the Aliaga family and their descendants since Francisco Pizarro granted the land to Jerónimo de Aliaga in 1535.  We walked through the elegant salons that were richly decorated with Spanish colonial furniture, as was the dining room where we were served lunch.

Interior of Casa Aliaga

 

  In the afternoon, we flew from Lima to Iquitos where we boarded a bus for the two-hour ride to Nauta, located on the north bank of the Maranon River, a major tributary of the Upper Amazon.  There we walked on boards placed over the muddy ground to board the Delfin II, a small boat that only accommodated 28 guests.  It was even smaller than the ship we were on in the Galapagos Islands. The Peruvian owners built the ship for the express purpose of exploring deep into the Peruvian Amazon.  The staff on the ship was from Lindblad/National Geographic, and they were very conservation-focused.  This would be a different experience than the ocean or river boat cruises we had been on before.

Trip from Lima to Nauta and back

 

Delfin II

 

The emphasis on this tour was on exploring the rich ecosystem of the 8,000-square-mile Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, a vast area of Amazonian jungle and floodable forest bordered by the Maranon River on one side and the Ucayali River on the other. Known for its biodiversity, it sheltered animals from pink dolphins to spider monkeys and giant South American turtles. It was also home to hundreds of bird species, like colorful macaws. We were on the alert and moving from 5:30 a.m. when the pre-breakfast expeditions began.  We picked up our binoculars which were hung outside the air-conditioned rooms.  Bringing glasses from the air-conditioning into the surrounding hot and humid air made them unusable for some time.  Then we were ready to board the zodiacs and explore the river and surrounding forest.

Pacaya Samiria National Reserve

 

We began by going past Nauta and on up the Maranon River.  At night, the crew pulled the boat up and tied it off on a river bank.  The unusual pink dolphins in that river could often be seen swimming around the ship.  Early in the morning, we could sometimes see young children who had been sent off to catch fish.  If our zodiac paused by their boat, they liked to show us their catch floating in the water in the bottom of their canoe (like a Piranha whose teeth they had clipped off).  The rivers were very high, flooding some of the native villages next to them.  The flooding is caused by seasonal rains in the Andes Mountains, which melt snow and glaciers, raising water levels.  Parts of the forest may flood from December to May each year.  We were not going to be taking any hikes.  Our guides usually took us up a small tributary of the river.  Once our zodiac got stuck in some large lily pads whose tendrils wrapped around the blades of the outboard motor.  Our guides had to get out in the water and work hard to get us unstuck.

Crew piloting boat through flooded waters

 

Families and dogs suffering through the flood

 

After a couple of days, our boat reversed course and went back downstream in order to go up the Ucayali River.  It was exciting to go through the confluence of the two rivers and briefly be in the Amazon River itself that flowed downstream from there before reaching the Atlantic Ocean.  One afternoon we stopped at a village market.  They were selling many products that they had made themselves.  Diane and I were intrigued by a wood carving made by a native man but were short of cash.   After borrowing some money from another Olivia guest, Diane and I were finally able to purchase his hand-carved wooden caiman.  Another day, we were taken to a lake and offered the opportunity to swim.  As tempting as it was in the hot climate, Diane and I declined, remembering the warning given us by the woman at the MU Travel Connection (where we got our pre-trip vaccinations).  She told us about tiny parasites we could encounter that like to swim into any available openings, like the vagina.  To us, it was not worth the risk.

Diane and me practice Tai Chi aboard the boat

 

For a nature lover like myself, this was a great trip.  The boat was very luxurious.  The food was fresh and nicely prepared.  The boat owner’s wife was along during our tour, and was very gracious and welcoming.  I was continually amazed at the eyesight of the guides, how they could spot birds or animals, even when they were high up in the trees or in the shadows.  The guides deserved much of the credit for making this an enjoyable trip.

Celebrating the trip

 

When we got back to Columbia, we found an invitation from our friend Nancy to join her for her birthday on a visit to the Budweiser Warm Springs Ranch.  It is the official breeding facility of the Budweiser Clydesdales, the large horses that are bred for their distinctive coloration and size.  We were shown the stalls, pastures, food and equipment, including the horse shoes for their large feet.  What made this visit real special was the presence of the newborn foals.  Nancy gave us permission to ask a guest, and we brought our medical student, Marcia, to join us.  The Heyssel Senior Teacher Educator Partnership (STEP) Program at the MU School of Medicine matches first-year medical students with senior citizens in the community, and Marcia was matched with Diane and me.  After the tour, Nancy and her husband, Harry, took us and some additional guests to lunch at The Bistro at Les Bourgeois Vineyards in Rocheport, MO.  It was a lovely afternoon with friends.

Budweiser Clydesdale horse (?pregnant)

 

Horseshoe

 

Foal

 

Me, Marcia and Diane

 

There was starting to be a lot of talk in the country about legalizing gay marriage.  After Amendment 2 passed in Missouri in 2004 denying its legality, Diane and I hadn’t thought much about it.  On May 9, President Obama became the first sitting U.S. president to declare his support for legalizing same-sex marriage.  Then on June 6, Judge Barbara Jones of the District Court for the Southern District of New York found section 3 of DOMA (Defense of Marriage Act) unconstitutional in Windsor v. United States.  Section 3 was the part that prevented the federal government from recognizing any marriages between gay or lesbian couples for the purpose of federal laws or programs, even if those couples were considered legally married by their home state.  Edith Windsor and Thea Spyer married in Toronto in 2007 where same-sex marriages were legal. At the time of Spyer’s death, the state of New York recognized the couple’s marriage. However, the IRS denied Windsor use of a spousal estate tax exemption on the grounds that, under DOMA, the federal government did not recognize same-sex marriages for the purpose of federal benefits.  Gays and lesbians were becoming hopeful.

In July, we visited the Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis to see the exhibit: “Lantern Festival: Art by Day, Magic by Night,” an international exhibition of 26 larger-than-life, lighted works of art from Zigong, China.  There were elaborate outdoor sets crafted of silk and steel that celebrated Chinese culture through bold color, dazzling light and striking design.  The exhibition was the first of its kind and size in the United States, giving us an opportunity to witness a spectacle rarely staged outside of Asia.  We viewed it both in daylight and at night.

Two dragons in the daytime

 

Same two dragons at night with smoke coming from their mouths

 

Details showing materials used in their construction

 

In this time between trips, I also started working with two of our younger friends about the structure of their finances.  They were using a financial advisor to manage their retirement funds and they were concerned about the management fees.  In talking with them, I also discovered they did not have any money in a savings account that they could use when the need arose, like a new car or house repairs.  That meant they had to get loans or buy on credit which meant paying interest.  They also had credit card balances charging interest.  I gave them advice on how to divert some of their income into an account from which they could pay off all debt and then start on a plan of asset allocation with Vanguard, rather than using the financial adviser.  They were both smart women and were happy to get started on this plan.

Diane and I finally decided to change lawyers from the one in St. Louis we had started with in 1991 to one in Columbia, as it appeared we would be living here the rest of our lives.  Our bank recommended a woman lawyer, Helen Cripps, and we found we were both comfortable with her, even though she was not a lesbian.  She was happy to work with us on our revocable trust agreements, as well as all the other legal documents: Last Will & Testament, Durable Power of Attorney, Health Care Declaration, and Durable Power of Attorney for Health Care.  We felt well-protected.

I continued to meet and learn from my friend Bob.  He urged me to use more Google products.  I created a joint Gmail account for Diane and me and set up a Google Contacts account into which I added the phone numbers, home and email addresses of Diane’s and my family and friends.  I also set up a Gmail account for our Tai Chi group in order to send announcements about Tai Chi activities. 

Diane and I were very active politically by donating money, attending fundraisers, talking to candidates and supporting Muleskinners.  We decided to take it one step further.  Diane and I started writing election newsletters which described voting procedures and made recommendations on ballot issues, non-partisan and Democratic candidate races, starting with the August primary.  Based on news articles, Muleskinners forums and our personal knowledge, we offered our opinions.  We invited our Tai Chi friends to join that email list.  Soon there were over 100 email addresses that received our election recommendations.  We urged the recipients to share with friends and family as well.  We made it clear that we would promptly honor any request to be removed from the email list.  We hoped that sending this information would encourage more readers to vote and become educated on political issues.  We planned to continue writing and sending the emails. 

On Tuesday August 7, I worked as an election judge during the primary election.  It was a long ballot as there were races at the state level for the US Senate and House, the Governor and Executive Branch as well as county races.

With all our upcoming international travel, we also applied for a Global Entry Card, filling out the forms and paying the fee online.  It would make us eligible for shorter lines leaving and coming back into the US.  US Customs and Border Protection would review our applications, and, if conditionally approved, we would be notified to schedule an interview at a Global Entry Enrollment Center.  The program was relatively new; few airports had a Center, and the wait times for interviews were long.  We were able to schedule our interview for when we flew to the Denver airport in October.